Several years ago, I paid a visit to a handful of Washington neighborhoods. My main motivation for these look sees was to check outs the improvements they have undergone. I picked this folder back up this week with a visit to DC’s West End. Initially, I based my decision to go there solely on wanting to see the new West End cinema, but two blocks in to my walk, it was apparent this neighborhood deserved the full monty.
I started at the Foggy Bottom Metro. Stepping off the escalator, and seeing all the new buildings on the GWU campus, I recalled my first set of visits there when we arrived here in Washington in 1995. 16 years on, a remarkable makeover for this northern part of Foggy Bottom.
Instead of heading directly for the West End, I first paid a quick visit to The Avenue, a new mixed-use development at the corner of 22nd and Eye. In a few weeks, a lot of people will be walking there for the much-anticipated debut of Whole Foods.
As I walked past Washington Circle and into the West End neighborhood, I felt the distinct feel of change from the hustle and bustle around the Foggy Bottom metro stop and that part of the GW campus. Since I knew very little about this place in between Georgetown and DuPont Circle, discovery was abundant.
Before my visit, I had read where some residents feared the on-going gentrification. I talked with several residents who spoke positively of the changes, including one man walking his dogs who said folks like himself wanted to see more moderately priced restaurants and things to do at night.
Here are the highlights of my visit, in no certain order.
Schneider Triangle
Designed by Thomas Franklin Schneider, these mansard-roofed row houses in the Queen Anne and Richardsonian Romanesque style were already striking by themselves. Partnered now with sleek modern buildings, it's a beautiful border for the neighborhood.
West End Cinema
Blink your eyes and you will miss this new indie theater on 23rd between M and N, but great to see it. Interesting they don’t show matinees, which has kept us from going.
Duke Ellington Birthplace (2129 Ward Place)
The great one was born here on April 29, 1899. Sadly, ugly monstrosities now overwhelm this short curving side road. The good news is that Ellington is remembered with a commemorative plaque (they took it down temporarily to make improvements to the wall and to replace the gold lettering). On this spot geeks can see the precise location of the home at the West End Friends website. They are also planning to erect a statue there.
District Hardware and Bike Shop
Lowe’s and Home Depot have put a squeeze on the mom and pops, but some like this survive. Had a pleasant chat with the two men behind the counter. They showed me the black and white photo of their original shop in DuPont Circle.
World Wildlife Fund
A most pleasant surprise to find WWF’s glassy home office. I remember contributing money to them in the 80s in their efforts to “Save the Whales.” Their sky-lit atrium, rising to eight stories, is beautiful. This important charitable trust is celebrating its 50th year.
Save the Whales! Save the Dolphins! Save Our Wildlife!
22 West
Luxury condominiums built in an angular glass building. Who needs Georgetown or DuPont Circle?
Library
The West End has been described as staid and I saw some of that. But if developer East Banc has anything to say about it, their re-development of the Library will be anything but. The residential project would include a new library, a 52 unit low income and possibly retail.
Ritz Carlton
Luxury hotels dot the tony neighborhood. The Ritz-Carlton and the Park Hyatt vie for best in vogue…
Brewmaster's Castle
Although it’s located a block or two outside the traditional definition of the West End, and DuPont Circle gets the bragging rights, this magnificent historic building should be seen on a visit to the West End. German immigrant and brewer Christian Heurich built this mansion in 1894. Tours are available on certain days, and it’s a must see.
Commemorative Marker for the signing of the Rush-Bagot agreement in 1818 at the British Legation (site)
Pleasant surprise, upon seeing RUSH and Canada, mind wandered…
Concluding Thoughts
The West End has come a long since its early days of gangs, malaria, and an undesirable place to live. I’ve read a few disparaging remarks about the neighborhood, slights that owe more to the past than the present and future. Led by the West End Friends, good things are happening for the community such as the effort to establish a new dog park.
I rather like the West End. I would like to see more commemorative markers, and hopefully we will return for that matinee...
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