Verifying this morning at the Alexandria African American
Heritage Park. This is
one of my favorite places.
It combines history and art with a natural setting. The walk winds around a
wetlands portion, a calming soulscape, if you will.
Jerome Meadows did a stunning job with the
art. I suppose the markers are not
technically historical markers, but they incorporate detaled information from
Alexandria’s black history.
Verifying in Jones Point Park today (getting closer to the finish line!). I’ve said it before just how much I love this place, especially with the 20 new interpretive markers.
This morning, along the western portion of the park near the lighthouse, I came across a lady walking her two hounds. She stopped by a tree, picked the berry, and ate it. I watched a pleasant expression come across her face.
Not something you see too often these days. Let me inquire.
Turns out the tree is a serviceberry. She said the fruit is delicious. I had never heard of it.
Mother Earth News says this about it.
A small tree or large shrub in form, and bearing many names, this American native plant is beautiful in early spring for its billows of lacy white blooms and beautiful again in autumn for blazing color on the pleasing rounded leaves. In the late spring – serviceberry is sometimes called Juneberry – the fruit makes for some magical eating, as thousands of delicious purple-red berries ripen.
Verifying continues, today at the West End. No, not that West End. We’re talking Alexandria’s first West End.
Three interpretive signs tell the history of the city’s first subdivision. But it wasn’t just a place to live. West End clamored with the sound of cattle shipments, a brewery and a tannery.
The map I am showing can be found in the Duke Street tunnel that
pedestrians use to and fro Carlyle. Spring Garden Farm was surveyed by George Gilpin in 1797. In his book, Robert L. Madison
notes that George Washington attended a Fourth of July event there in
1798. The four-acre site
then became a burial ground.
Spring Garden Farm is not within the boundaries of the original west end, which ran from Hooff’s Run over to Shuter’s Hill.
(Map from VDOT report prepared by T. Ted Cromwell and Timothy J. Hill)
Thanks to the foresight and graciousness of Ruth Reeder, I am on tap to speak about my book (New working title is “Historic Walks in Old Town Alexandria, Virginia”) at Alexandria Archaeology’s “Java Jolt” on October 12 (held at their museum in the Torpedo Factory Arts Center).
One of the topics I hope to touch on briefly is - What deserving person/place/event does not have a marker?
In thinking about how I could try and answer the question, I decided to take a look at the index to “A Seaport Saga.” Most of the history makers have five or more page references in that book. I took that list and ran a “Find” search of my manuscript.
The name that stands out the most in this regard is Benjamin
Hallowell. He is
mentioned ten times in Seaport, but only very briefly on two markers and none
dedicated solely to him.
I wrote about Hallowell in September 2010, so I hope you don’t mind if I borrow some from that posting. I also purchased his autobiography at the Lyceum.
Hallowell (1799-1877), a Quaker Educator, made great contributions to Alexandria. Under his leadership, the Lyceum was built in 1839 (this is noted on the Lyceum marker). He gave lectures on astronomy, history and other subjects.
After the death of their son, the Hallowell family left Alexandria, but returned soon thereafter. In 1834, he purchased the Hoffman Sugar House on the west side of the 200 block of North Washington between Cameron and Queen (next to the Lloyd House) and converted it into a boarding school that prepped students for college. The courses included mathematics, science, and engineering. Robert E. Lee attended. Hallowell enforced discipline, prompting some of the boys to nickname the school – “Brimstone Castle.”
Hallowell also served as the City Surveyor and Police Constable and helped improve the water system. In the 1850s, he designed and built a house across from the school, at 215 N. Washington Street. It was a “lovely dwelling,” and later attracted Charles C. Carlin (1866-1938), an Alexandria native and U.S. Congressman, who resided there. He entertained guests including President Taft.
Unfortunately, both his home and school were torn down in the 1960s during the urban-renewal movement of the mid-20th century. It would be great if an historical marker could be erected for Hallowell, possibly at one of these two sites.
“Where’s the beef?”
The Wendy’s lady wanted to know, and so too have some Old Town residents. More specifically, when are we going to get a good steakhouse?
It appears Michael Cordero has the answer. As reported by Derrick Perkins of The Alexandria Times, Cordero will open
up Flat Iron Tavern this summer.
The location is 808 King, where he ran Aqua Vivia.
Cordero noted the concept “will be modeled after mid-20th century Chicago and New York steakhouses,” as well as offering scotch and oysters.
Anyway, we noticed their temp sign is up and hiring sheet.
The better half and I have all but abandoned steak but we like this as an option. Old Town is seeing a boom with restaurants, and this will be the latest.
Verifying locations and wording continued today in
Parker-Gray. Lo and behold, I came
across a new historical plaque at The Asher, 620 N. Fayette. During the construction
they found the embedded rails for the Alexandria and Fredericksburg railroad
line that went down the middle of Fayette Street. It was
one of four lines that traversed the city.
Interesting to note that the Hopkins Atlas Map of 1867 shows a rectangular box in the middle of the block now occupied by The Asher. Perhaps it was a warehouse of some sort.
There’s also a new block of stone on the south side of The Asher. Can’t wait for that marker. Maybe it will discuss the rectangular structure.
Harriet Tubman is an American hero. - Presidential Proclamation, Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Monument.
Historic district, museums, boutiques, cafes, – come on Jay, don’t your road trips ever get old?
I have to admit that after more than two-dozen treks to towns and cities in the region, a bit of those thoughts do creep in when I’m thinking about our next destination. But while there is a boilerplate aspect to road trips, our visits have demonstrated time and time again that each and every locale has a flair for making their place unique and special.
Cambridge, our latest visit, demonstrated this once again. Situated in the southern part of Maryland’s Eastern Shore, about an hour south of the Bay Bridge, this county (Dorchester) seat is one of the oldest colonial cities (pop: 12,236) in Maryland. Settlers arrived from England around 1684.
The better half and I have been to Easton (my how you’ve grown) but never to Cambridge, another 14 miles south. The drive down culminated with a rewarding approach over the wide waters of the Choptank River. Like Alexandria, Fredericksburg, Chestertown and others, the bridge over the river offers that commanding view of the historic district and marinas below.
The layout of Cambridge, however, is more interesting. A half-mile long inlet juts into the heart of the city, and creates the additional waterfront and a second small bridge. Cambridge also deviates from the norm in that its streets are not in the traditional grid pattern. For wanderers, this L'Enfant-esque design provides welcome relief.
The center of gravity in Cambridge is High Street and Race Street. We parked there after visiting some of the waterfront and the historic district’s lovely homes. Here’s a quick rundown on our visit.
Harriet Tubman Museum
Although we did not have time to do so, Cambridge is the place to launch a journey into the life of Harriet Tubman. Born into an enslaved life south of Cambridge, she became known as the Moses of her peoples.
I knew the very basics of Tubman’s life, but it wasn’t until I read Catherine Clinton’s biography (“Harriet Tubman, The Road to Freedom”) that I came to know just how extraordinary her life was. Reading about the brutality and ill treatment she endured in her younger years is hard to get through, but there are stories that uplift the soul as well. The Quakers and Philadelphia came to the rescue, progressives ahead of their time. Still, the inhumanity and fear were always there.
After fleeing southern Maryland at age 29, Tubman became an abductor with the Underground Railroad. This was the toughest job, and risky business to say the least for someone so wanted by the other side. Anything south of Philadelphia was dangerous, much less going back to Cambridge. Tubman also faced heavy psychological challenges. She tried to rescue her husband only to learn he had found another woman and wanted to stay.
The Tubman Museum does a great job of documenting her life. Her place of birth was long reported as Bucktown, but the director told me the evidence points to Peter’s Neck, several miles to south of Madison.
I talked with the Director of the new Tubman Park and Monument. She said they’re looking at completion in about two new years. With all the new info, this will be a great place to learn about Tubman and the Underground Railroad.
Christ Episcopal Church, Gothic Revival.
Dorchester County Courthouse
Looking more like a hall of leisure than a hall of justice, the Dorchester County Court House stands out with its painted brick and Italianate influences. Tubman’s niece escaped here from the auction block.
Goldsborough
Time slows down to a crawl along High Street as it approaches the waterfront. The oldest homes are here along the 100 and 200 block.
Goldsborough, built in 1790, stands out. Its Ionic-columned front porch and five bays announce the prestige of the original owner.
New Lighthouse
Despite the rigorous effort I usually give to my scouting reports, I sometimes miss what turns out to be a can't miss. This took place at Cambridge’s new lighthouse. The docent there told us the story. The old one was dismantled by the Coast Guard. A new one was erected and opened earlier this year. This was my find of the year. If you go to Cambridge, go here. If nothing else, you will escape the heat and have great views.
High Point Restaurant
Patrick Fanning is whipping up some delicious plates here, daring to push the envelope with offerings such as BBQ Shepherd’s Pie. Who needs the big city when you can dine at a place like this?
Shopping
The better half enjoyed shopping at Just Yesterday. The owner told us she was born and raised in DC, and lived in Adams-Morgan before falling in love with Cambridge.
Roberta also enjoyed Joie de Vivre, Sunny Side Shop and the Dorchester Art Center.
All in all, an excellent trip. There is a sameness to road tripping, but time and time again we've seen each locale shine in their own unique way. Cambridge certainly showed us that once again.
With the heat wave in our area at full force, I’ve been doing my verifying rounds from 7 to 10 am. Took these photos this morning, the first from Harborside Park and the second from the Mount Vernon Trail approaching Old Town.
(Title ref: BTO)
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