Harriet
Tubman is an American hero. - Presidential Proclamation, Harriet Tubman
Underground Railroad National Monument.
Historic district, museums, boutiques, cafes, – come
on Jay, don’t your road trips ever get old?
I have to admit that after more than two-dozen treks
to towns and cities in the region, a bit of those thoughts do creep in when I’m
thinking about our next destination. But while there is a boilerplate aspect to road trips, our
visits have demonstrated time and time again that each and every locale has a
flair for making their place unique and special.
Cambridge, our latest visit, demonstrated this once
again. Situated in the southern part of Maryland’s
Eastern Shore, about an hour south of the Bay Bridge, this county (Dorchester)
seat is one of the oldest colonial cities (pop: 12,236) in Maryland. Settlers arrived from England
around 1684.
The better half and I have been to Easton (my how
you’ve grown) but never to Cambridge, another 14 miles south. The drive down culminated with a
rewarding approach over the wide waters of the Choptank River. Like Alexandria, Fredericksburg,
Chestertown and others, the bridge over the river offers that commanding view
of the historic district and marinas below.
The layout of Cambridge, however, is more interesting.
A half-mile long inlet juts into
the heart of the city, and creates the additional waterfront and a second small
bridge. Cambridge also
deviates from the norm in that its streets are not in the traditional grid
pattern. For wanderers, this
L'Enfant-esque design
provides welcome relief.
The center of gravity in Cambridge is High Street and
Race Street. We parked there
after visiting some of the waterfront and the historic district’s lovely
homes. Here’s a quick rundown
on our visit.
Harriet Tubman Museum

Although we did not have time to do so, Cambridge is
the place to launch a journey into the life of Harriet Tubman. Born into an enslaved life south of
Cambridge, she became known as the Moses of her peoples.
I knew the very basics of Tubman’s life, but it wasn’t
until I read Catherine Clinton’s biography (“Harriet Tubman, The Road to
Freedom”) that I came to know just how extraordinary her life was. Reading about the brutality and
ill treatment she endured in her younger years is hard to get through, but
there are stories that uplift the soul as well. The Quakers and Philadelphia came to the rescue,
progressives ahead of their time.
Still, the inhumanity and fear were always there.
After fleeing southern Maryland at age 29, Tubman
became an abductor with the Underground Railroad. This was the toughest job, and risky business to say
the least for someone so wanted by the other side. Anything south of Philadelphia was dangerous, much
less going back to Cambridge.
Tubman also faced heavy psychological challenges. She tried to rescue her husband only to
learn he had found another woman and wanted to stay.
The Tubman Museum does a great job of documenting her
life. Her place of birth was
long reported as Bucktown, but the director told me the evidence points to
Peter’s Neck, several miles to south of Madison.
I talked with the Director of the new Tubman Park and
Monument. She said they’re
looking at completion in about two new years. With all the new info, this will be a great place to
learn about Tubman and the Underground Railroad.
Christ Episcopal Church, Gothic Revival.

Dorchester County Courthouse
Looking more like a hall of leisure than a hall of
justice, the Dorchester County Court House stands out with its painted brick
and Italianate influences.
Tubman’s niece escaped here from the auction block.

Goldsborough
Time slows down to a crawl along High Street as it
approaches the waterfront.
The oldest homes are here along the 100 and 200 block.
Goldsborough, built in 1790, stands out. Its Ionic-columned front porch and
five bays announce the prestige of the original owner.
New Lighthouse
Despite the rigorous effort I usually give to my
scouting reports, I sometimes miss what turns out to be a can't miss. This took place at Cambridge’s new lighthouse. The docent there told us the story. The old one was dismantled by the
Coast Guard. A new one was
erected and opened earlier this year. This was my find of the year. If you go to Cambridge, go
here. If nothing else,
you will escape the heat and have great views.
High Point Restaurant
Patrick Fanning is whipping up some delicious plates here, daring to push the envelope with offerings such as BBQ Shepherd’s Pie. Who needs the big city when you can dine at a place like this?

Shopping
The better half enjoyed shopping at Just
Yesterday. The owner told us she was born and
raised in DC, and lived in Adams-Morgan before falling in love with Cambridge.
Roberta also enjoyed Joie de Vivre, Sunny Side Shop
and the Dorchester Art Center.
All in all, an excellent trip. There is a sameness to road
tripping, but time and time again we've seen each locale shine in their own unique way. Cambridge certainly showed us that once again.
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