Jaybird's Jottings

Suburban Retooling: Penn Daw Takes the Lead

One of the most fascinating places to watch suburban retooling right now is at Penn-Daw, the neighborhood two miles south of Old Town on both sides of Route One. It remains a place speeding cars want to get past on their way to the next red light, but a dramatic new sense of community is unfolding.

 

County planners project Groveton, the nearby set of neighborhoods up on the top of Beacon Hill, to ultimately have more growth than Penn Daw. Those plans include a possible Metro Station that Penn Daw would not have.

 

For now, however, and for the foreseeable future, Penn Daw has taken the lead in growth with two residential developments (The Shelby and South Alex) at its major intersection of Route One and King’s Highway. A third (Belhaven Apartments) is ready to open its 350 doors, with a fourth residential project approved and scheduled to be built this year.

 

Penn Daw was born as a motel mecca that put this part of Richmond Highway on the map in the 1930s. The neighborhood got its name from E.M. Pennell and Samuel Cooper Dawson (1877-1957). Dawson lived in Alexandria, served as a vestryman of Immanuel Church on Seminary Hill and on a number of boards. His son, Samuel Cooper Dawson Jr, was born in Alexandria and graduated from Episcopal High School and UVA.

 

In 1927, Pennell and Dawson formed the Penn Daw Hotels Corporation and built the Penn Daw motel, one of the first modern motor hotels on the East Coast. It included a restaurant and became a popular stop on Route One. The Fairfax Room there served as a civic gathering place. In the summer of 1929, The Evening Star printed a guide and map for travelers and it include the Penn Daw restaurant.

 

Penn Daw continued to grow with streets such as Franklin. It is named for Harry Lehman's great grandfather, Franklin Reid and by his grandfather W.F.P. Reid, who served as Chairman of the Fairfax County Board of Supervisors. Lehman grew up in City View (1920-1959), a four-story mansion that was located next to the Beacon Airport. Penn Daw was also home to the first Fairfax City Police Sub Station.

 

Penn Daw today offers a variety of places. The beating heart is the WalMart, which brings in customers from Virginia, Maryland, and DC and sits on the site of Spring Bank, a landmark brick mansion that stood there from 1804 to 1972. Krispy Kreme remains the queen bee, while a few doors down El Pollo Ranchero celebrates their 20th anniversary and Uncle C’s Chicken & Waffles looks like it is in for a long run. Viet House is popular serving pho, noodles, and vermicelli.

 

Office Depot hangs on with old schoolers like myself buying ink, paper, and file folders. An Urgent Care facility stands close to a tobacco shop and the artery clogging food places that doctors tell us to try and avoid.

 

You never saw murals along Route One, but South Alex boasts a large new one. Aldi will open there in March while residents wait to see who fills the other small retail in the U-shaped configuration. The new stoplight there on King’s Highway annoys long timers who remember when the green light lasted longer.

The most fascinating aspect in Penn Daw right now is the set of mobile homes which sit next to where the new residential will rise. Residents there fight for their rights and hold NIMBY concerns.

 

Behind them lies a set of steep hills where Spring Bank got its name from. Dotting the hidden landscape are trees and the flow of a brook that feeds into Great Hunting Creek. There’s been some talk of this boxed-in beauty becoming a park. For now it remains one of the best kept secrets in these parts.

 

When all is said and done, everything one sees in this central part of Penn Daw could be gone. The former Penn Daw firehouse hangs on as a rental place. Its three arches give it so much potential for adaptive reuse, but it’s too close to the right of way needed for the new BRT.

 

In perhaps six years or so, a new sight will be seen in Penn Daw and along the Richmond Highway Corridor. A Bus Rapid Transit system will run from Huntington Metro Station to Fort Belvoir, a six-mile long necklace with 8 stations.

 

The county recently collected votes for the names of each station. I remember thinking that surely Penn Daw will win out. As we have seen, the name pays homage to the two businessmen who helped put it on the map. Penn Daw had an on going presence in the newspapers with ads for the Penn Daw Shopping Center, bowling tournaments at the Penn Daw Lanes, and, of course, the hotels.  A road sign the county put up several years ago says, Penn Daw.

 

Even though it moved up to Groveton, the Penn Daw Fire Department kept its long time name. Alexandria Living Magazine, Fairfax Now, and other news outlets use the Penn Daw name. Southeast Fairfax Corporations project maps and county planners use Penn Daw, which is one of six Community Business Centers along Richmond Highway.

 

Despite all of the above, it was not enough. The county recently released the results of their survey for the naming of the BRT stations. The name for the one at Penn Daw will be Kings Crossing, the name of the retail center anchored by the Walmart.

The Torpedo Factory: Overview of the History of the Station

On Monday we published, "The Torpedo Factory:  An Illustrated Timeline."

We add here a summary of the history of the station.

 

At full build out in 1945, the Alexandria Naval Torpedo Station consisted of four main buildings (1, 2, 3 and 10), and a total of 19 structures.   

Perhaps contrary to popular belief, the assembly of the torpedoes (during WW 2) was done in Building 1 (torn down in 1986 and became condos).  Building 2, today’s Torpedo Factory Arts Center, was storage and admin.

The assembly process was a tedious one and took skilled workers.   All the plant workers worked hard and long hours.   A number of Washington residents and some Alexandrians worked at the plant and even more later when it became a Records Center.

As Char Bah points out in her primer, African Americans, including many women, did their part.  This would make a great further study, the great paradox of working for the US Government and all those feelings of patriotism and national pride, while at the same time living within the constraints of Jim Crow.

As written about in books such as “Iron Men and Tin Fish” by Anthony Newpower, there were persistent problems with the MK14 torpedoes.   The Alexandria plant was certainly not at fault.   

There were three defects - a tendency to run deeper that depth set, frequent premature detonation, and failure of the contact exploder.   Adding to the problem was the fact the Navy did not fully test the torpedoes.   After 21 months and much cussing from sub commanders, the problem was finally fixed in November, 1943.

Perhaps the most under-appreciated part is the period (1950-1968) of being a Federal Records Center.   There were a number of types of records, including Captured German War Records. 

The team of workers and historians who made up the Alexandria Microfilming Project put the files on microfilm, which were then sent to the National Archives in Washington.  The originals were returned to Germany.    Even before the completion, historians conducted research at the building.

A forgotten name in that story is Robert Wolfe.   He was an expert on some of these records and helped researchers and prosecutors of war crimes.

Another forgotten name is Gerhard Weinberg (born 1928).   After learning he was also part of the story, I sent him an email.  He gave the following reply.

“I had been asked by the American Historical Association to organize the microfilming of the captured German documents then being held in the Old Torpedo Factory by the American Army before they were returned to Germany.  In the summer of 1958 I was working there and had turned to a group of records that for some reason had been held separately.  It was while processing these with descriptions before they were microfilmed that I held a document that had been labeled as a draft of Hitler's book Mein Kampf but was obviously not that but another book that he had dictated but never published.  In my own research I had learned of the existence of such a thing and immediately recognized that this was it.  It had a note on its confiscation at the Nazi Party's publishing house in Munich by the American army in whose occupation zone Munich was included.  The official British representative in the torpedo factory, to whom I mentioned this important document, found out that the American Army had furnished the British government with a microfilm of it in 1945.  He obtained a copy of the film which he lent to me and from which I had a print made that became the original published version issued by the Institute for Contemporary History in Munich in 1962.  It took me several decades to get a publication in English. I hope this helps.”

 

Weinberg went on to author numerous books and articles, and became a preeminent American historian.   

To say the least, the work done by Weinberg and the Alexandria microfilming committee was remarkable.   Astrid M. Eckert, author of “The Struggle for the Files, The Western Allies and the Return of German Archives after the Second World War,” provides a number of observations.

One - The Alexandria microfilming project gave the fullest records of a twentieth century totalitarian regime available to students and scholars.

Two - Weinberg and his colleagues helped guarantee scholarly and international access to valuable historical sources much earlier than would otherwise have been possible. This established an important transnational foundation for postwar scholarship.

Three - The microfilming project delivered source material at a decisive moment in the development of the American historical profession.

Four -  The microfilm project set a precedent and gave a dynamism to the study of German history in the US.

Dagmar Horna Perman, a Director of the project, wrote about the microfilming in 1959 (“Microfilming of German Records in the National Archives,” The American Archivist, Oct., 1959).   She describes the tedious task made more difficult by damaged and separated documents.   Summarizing the contents often meant referring to other files and documents.   Some documents had to be transcribed before filming.    In the end, over 2,000 rolls of films were produced and made available at the National Archives, as well as the finding aids.

The Torpedo Factory: An Illustrated Timeline

Undeniably, the entire personnel of the Naval Torpedo Station in Alexandria, Va., can justifiably boast of the enviable records attained in production, safety, attendance, bond purchases, blood donations, labor-management, beneficial suggestions and a host of other wartime requisites, which were accomplished by combined efforts of the diligent workers and the splendid supervisory leadership.  -   "The Torp," Alexandria Naval Torpedo Station newsletter, April, 1945.

The Alexandria microfilming project gave the fullest records of a twentieth century totalitarian regime available to students and scholars.   -  Astrid M. Eckert, author of “The Struggle for the Files, The Western Allies and the Return of German Archives after the Second World War.”

The white behemoths, so starkly visible within Old Town Alexandria’s smaller-scale, red-brick, 19th-century urban fabric, were expositions in modern Industrial design, which embraced the latest materials – namely concrete, steel, and large expanses of glass.  Building #2, which now houses the TFAC, is the last vestige of Alexandria’s waterfront’s industrial might. - Heather N. McMahon, Preliminary Information Form, Torpedo Factory Art Center

 

In 2024, the 50th anniversary of the Torpedo Factory Arts Center in Alexandria will arrive.   In anticipation of that milestone, we decided to put together an illustrated timeline for the history of the building and the others that made up the Alexandria Naval Torpedo Station.  

We were inspired by and are grateful to Heather N. McMahon, the Architectural Historian who researched and wrote the Preliminary Information Report for the Torpedo Factory, a 35-page tour de force.  We supplement her findings with some of our own searching.   The timeline includes headlines, and photographs for a total of 30 images.  We also went through the Vertical File at Special Collections.   Our thanks to Jeffery Flannery, Reference Librarian there.   We also appreciate the help of Susan Hellman.   A most special treat was sitting down with Marian Van Landingham, who answered questions and clarified points. 

 

Before we begin, it is important to understand the layout of the station, which reached its full build out in the 1940s. 

Image:  Map by Author, Photo with permission from Alexandria Library, Special Collections

Building One, West side of Union

Torpedo Assembly, Workers Commissary, Completed 1920. Demolished early 1980s. Condos and parking garage built on site.  Named Torpedo Factory Condominiums.

Building Two (Today’s Torpedo Factory Arts Center at 105 N. Union Street)

Completed 1920.  Torpedo storage, power plant, and upstairs offices.   A covered walkway ran between Buildings One and Two at second story level. Records Storage Center 1950s.  Became Torpedo Factory Arts Center in 1974.   

Building Three

Completed 1942.  Overhaul and supply.   Remodeled 1982 for office space.

Building Ten

Completed 1943.  Admin use.  Remodeled 1986 for Retail and Office.  Now home to Vola's Restaurant and offices.

Ancillary Structures

There were also ancillary structures near the river, including some at the old Ford Motor Company plant at the foot of Franklin and S. Union streets.   All demolished.

 

Naval Torpedo Station Timeline

 

April 6, 1917

US declares state of war against Germany, officially entering World War I.   

Image: Washington Times

October 6, 1917

Congress approves funding for increase in ordnance production.

August 1918

President Wilson authorizes new naval torpedo station assembly plant at Alexandria.

US Navy begins purchasing almost 3 acres between King and Cameron, Fayette Alley and Cameron and S. Lee and Potomac River. 

October 1918

Workers clear two block site - warehouses, stables, planing mill, and lumber yards.

Also erect seawall and wooden pier.

Image:  Sanborn Insurance Map 1912

November 11, 1918

Armistice Day, War Ends

Image: Washington Evening Star

November 12, 1918

Work begins on construction on Buildings 1 (Four Stories) and Building 2 (Two Stories).

Image:  Washington Post

 

 

February, 1920

Buildings 1 and 2 completed.  Includes walkway bridge over Union Street.

Image: 1921 Sanborn Map

November, 1920

First torpedo, MK8, 21 inch by 21 foot, rolls off assembly line.  Average of 500 persons employed between 1919 and 1923.

 

July, 1921

Playing at the N. Alfred Street field, the Alexandria Torpedo Station Baseball team defeats Speedway A.C. 10 to 9.

Image: Alexandria Gazette, July 27, 1921

 

June, 1923

Plant deactivated.  Skelton staff under jurisdiction of Naval Gun Factory in Washington who preserved torpedoes and maintenance of equipment and building.

Building 1, floors three and four emptied and rented as office space for Departments of Treasury and Agriculture.

 

 

October, 1926

On "Navy Day," October 27, rare public tour given.

Torpedoes moved to Bellevue Magazine in SE DC.

Image: Evening Star.

 

December 1937

Plant reopened as Shop 70 of the Naval Gun Factory.

New equipment purchased. 

Image:  Alexandria GIS.

 

1938

Plant reactivated and upgraded.

Building One resumed assembly operations.

Building Two resumed as storage and office.

 

1941

Chinquapin Village, federal housing project for workers, built near King Street and West Braddock Road.   Consisted of small frame duplexes, total of 150.

Alexandria GIS, 1949

April, 1941

First torpedo assembled (MK-14), tested at Piney Point, Maryland facility.  Testing does not include detonating.

Image:  Torpedo Factory Arts Center Display Board

May 1941

Tested torpedo sent to USS Gudgeon.

July 1941

Station re-designated as an autonomous Naval Torpedo Station.

November 26, 1941

Admiral W.H.P. Blandy, chief of the Bureau of Ordnance, awards station with coveted Navy “E” award and Bureau’s pennant.  Daniel J. O’Neill honored for working there since 1919.

December 7, 1941

Japan attacks US at Pearl Harbor.   Image: Evening Star.

December 8, 1941

Production begins to ramp up.  Plant will become largest single source of employment in the city.   

December 1941

Plant producing an average of between seven and ten torpedoes. African Americans in Alexandria do their part as workers. 

Image:  Torpedo Factory Arts Center Display Board

 

 

 

 

1942

Building 3, four stories, completed north of and adjoining Building 2.  Used for overhaul, Inspection and Supply.

Needing extra space, Navy purchased old Ford Motor Company plant at S. Union and Franklin.  Some of Overhaul Division moves in.   

First issue of "The Torp," station's monthly, four-page newsletter.

Image:  The Torp Newsletter.

1943

Building 10 built, a two-story addition to Building Two.   Administrative use.

Building 2 adjoined to Building 3.

Image:  With permission from Alexandria Library, Special Collections, Aerial View, 1943.  Cropped and Annotated by Author. 

 

First group of "WAVES" (Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service) reported to duty.  They replace Naval personnel in a number of departments.   Living quarters are at Lloyd House.  

Image:  The Torp Newsletter.

1944

Building Two expanded slightly.  Entire plant complex consists of 19 buildings.

September 25, 1944

In support of the Alexandria Home and War Fund campaign, bands and floats, including one entered by the NTS, parades down King Street.   

Image:   Submarine Torpedo Made in Alexandria, Wikipedia Commons.  Date Given as between 1942 and 1945.

Dec 16, 1944

Planned principally for women workers at the NTS, a new USO (United Service Organizations) center with lounge opens at 211 King Street.

 

1945

Employment figures given as 574 enlisted and more than 2,300 civilians.    One of the civilians was Nancy Lee Wheelehan, a native of Alexandria, who served as Associate Editor of The Torp.

Final torpedo rolls off July 18. 

Image:  The Torp Newsletter.

September 2

V-J Day, War Ends

November 15

214 workers laid off.

Production stops, end of war.   

 

1946

Station officially closed.

Final issue of "The Torp" published, station's monthly newsletter, whose first issue was March, 1942.

Image:  The Torp Newsletter.

1947-1949

Very little activity.   Operated as a Branch of Naval Ordnance Plant.

 

 

 

1950s

Torpedo plant renamed Alexandria Federal Records Center.  

1,800 cases of files, including German World War Two records sent to the former torpedo plant.  Files microfilmed.  Office workers included African American women.

Image:  Torpedo Factory Arts Center Display Board

 

Facility renamed, "National Archives WWII Records Center in Alexandria."   

Under the direction of The American Historical Society, the Alexandria Microfilming Project is led by Gerhard Weinberg.   Large amount of German War Records are put on microfilm and sent to National Archives.   Originals returned to Germany.  The project is handed over to the National Archives in 1958.

Image:  Torpedo Factory Arts Center Display Board

1968

Remaining records moved to National Archives in Washington and warehouse in Suitland, Maryland.  WWII Records Center closed.

Image:  Building 10, Wikipedia Commons

GSA used Building 2 to store museum collections from the Smithsonian Institute. 

1969

City purchases plant, Building 1, 2, 3, and 10 and ancillary structures.

 

1973

Marian Van Landingham, President of the Art League of Northern Virginia, proposes saving Building 2 and Building 10 for new home for artists.

Image:  Torpedo Factory Arts Center Display Board

1974

Volunteers remove tons of debris, improve interior, and paint exterior of Buildings 2 and 10.   

September 15

Torpedo Factory Arts Center officially opens.

Image:  Torpedo Factory Arts Center Display Board  

1977

City conducts feasibility study for the redevelopment of the former plant complex.

1978

City releases a request for proposals for redevelopment of the four buildings.   Stipulations include city ownership of 70,000 SF of floor space for arts center.

Alexandria Waterfront Restoration Group (Charles R. Hooff III) wins bid.  Building 1 and 3 to be sold to developers.   Building 10 to be altered and leased. Building 2 to remain for the artists (Torpedo Factory Arts Center). 

Image:  Redstone Proposal Booklet, Alexandria Library, Special Collections

1979

Alexandria Archaeology Research Museum established.   

 

1982

Artists vacate Building 2 for renovations which included adding a floating mezzanine level.  

After Building 1 is demolished, Alexandria archaeologists discover logs from the Carlyle-Dalton wharf, built c. 1759 and running parallel to the 100 block of Cameron Street.   Artifacts included a large number of water worn earthenware sherds from the third quarter of the 17th century.

Condos built above parking garage, named Torpedo Factory Condominiums. 

Image: 

Image: Photo by Author, taken with permission from Alexandria Archaeology Museum.

1983

Grand Reopening of Torpedo Factory Arts Center, includes return of torpedo number 64220, built in 1944.   

Image: Photo by Author.

 

 

 

 

1984

Alexandria Archaeology Museum opens.  Today recognized as a model program for the United States.

Image:  Photo by Author

 

1986

Building 3 renovated as office building.

Building 10 redesigned, including diagonal covered walkway.

Dock restored.

Image:   Shows Building 3 remodeled, Building 10 not yet remodeled.

2020

Building 2 turns 100 years old.

City Takes Permanent Control of TFAC.

2022

City Displays "Vibrancy

Initiative" Info Sheets.

Image: Photo by Author.

 

 

 

 

 

Conclusion

In his definitive history, “Maritime Alexandria,” Donald Shomette tells the reader, “By the onset of World War II, Alexandria’s long and frequently painful maritime history was already becoming a forgotten relic of the past.” 

That is certainly true, but the former Naval Torpedo Station buildings would continue to provide employment into the late 1960s.  Building 2 became not only a model for adaptive reuse and an arts center, but also a keystone attraction on the waterfront.   

As the city, residents, and artists hash out the unfolding of the Vibrancy Initiative, and as we approach the 50th anniversary of the Torpedo Factory Arts Center in 2024, it is our great hope that this remarkable building will get the attention it deserves.  Just as the munitions makers, archivists, historians, and preservationists answered the call to duty, it is now our duty to answer the call and place Building 2 on the National Register of Historic Places.  We ask for a sense of urgency, as some of the key players are in their 80s and 90s.  

Image: Photo by Author.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope Ridings Miller

“All that is my Washington and I love it.  Madhouse or not, I’d rather live here than anywhere else in the world.” - Hope Ridings Miller, June 27, 1943, The Washington Post.

Although some levels of misogyny still persists, women have made great strides in journalism.   So much so that the trailblazers have been forgotten about.   Although she is not a first pager such as Margaret Fuller or Ida B. Wells, deserving of our attention is Hope Ridings Miller (1905-2005).   We enjoyed learning about her in, “Washington’s Golden Age, Hope Ridings Miller, the Society Beat, and the Rise of Women Journalists.”   

One of the strengths of the book is that the author, Joseph Dalton, knew Miller (cousin) and had access to her unpublished memoir.   Footnoting comes from a bibliography of 83 works.   Photos touch across the span of her long and prolific life and include poses with First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt (who she covered during the first part of the New Deal), LBJ (fellow Texan), Vice President Nixon, and Speaker of the House Sam Rayburn (major background source).

Miller came out of Texas, the state that gave us journalistic greats such as Dan Rather and Bob Schieffer.   She might have climbed that same "hard news" ladder, but norms kept women out of those higher beats and seats.   

Nevertheless, Miller carved out an illustrative career behind a typewriter.   Beginning in 1937, she began her watchful eye on Washington society and life.   Her resume, which includes Society Editor with the Washington Post, Editor of Diplomat magazine, and over 1,800 columns with some syndication — was as sterling as the tableware she expertly reported on. 

Don’t let the lighter side fool you.  As Dalton points out:

Society editors get little more than a passing aside in the histories of the press.  It’s a misconception.   Coverage required knowledge keen and quick perception, a flair for analysis, and a way with words.

Miller supervised a staff responsible for two pages every day.   In 1934, the City Room at the Post consisted of Miller and 49 men.  She quickly earned the respect of her peers.  After one year, Miller was elected as President of the Women’s National Press Club.   

She also found time to write three books (“Embassy Row: The Life and Times of Diplomat Washington,” “Scandals in the Highest Office,” and “Great Houses of Washington DC.” 

The latter was a standout.   Miller, who had started out her career with the Post writing reviews of books, poured all her insider knowledge and vocabulary into it.   The hardcover (1969) benefits greatly from the photography of Charles Baptie.   Especially noteworthy are the large, color interior shots, numbering more than 100, and some perhaps never before seen.   The nomination form (National Register for Historic Places) for the Ringgold-Carroll House in Washington cites this book as a major bibliographical reference.

Researchers will benefit from "Washington’s Golden Age."  For example, Dalton points out that, in 1969, the women’s section of the Post got replaced by the Style section. 

“A dedicated forum for the systematic coverage of the women’s movement had been yanked awy.   It would take time and a new generation of unflinching women reporters to move issues like day care, abortion, and pay equality out of the realm of “soft news.”

This book includes some terrific anecdotes.  Miller said she never took notes at social events, but — “Many times I would take myself off to the ladies room and whip out a pencil and notebook from my bosom.”

If Miller had published her memoirs, it would have been a best seller in the city of A-listers she knew so well.   Unforgettable was the party thrown by Evelyn Walsh McLean on New Years’s Eve 1938.   McLean, the Kim Kardashian of her day and then some, owned and often whimsically wore the Hope Diamond.   Her memoir was titled, “Father Struck it Rich.”  900 lucky guests were lavishly entertained that night and into the morning at Friendship (demolished), the family estate that “provided its owners with every luxury imaginable.”   Miller, of course, provided all the details of the party on page 8.

“Golden Age” is always a bit of a problem in describing eras.  Golden for who?    

As Dalton shows throughout the book, Miller and some of her counterparts often held back and did not always go for the goofs, gotchas, and gaffes approach.    Whether or not that made it a Golden Age, we leave it up to each reader to decide.   

What can be said is that for Hope Ridings Miller and others like her, a starting point had been made by Eugene Myers, publisher of The Washington Post.   When he bought the paper in the early 1930s, it brought up the rear behind the Evening Star and three others.  Myers made his move and hired more and more women.    

These women had just as much fire in the belly as their male counterparts.   Malvina Lindsay, the woman’s page editor of the Post and later a columnist, recalled a conversation with Meyer.  It took place when he had just hired Miller.   He told Lindsay that Miller "might be good enough to become a society editor."

Lindsay pushed back, saying, “Oh, surely she can become much more.”

Hope Ridings Miller did indeed do exactly that.

 

 

 

 

A Special Place and A Special Family: The Aged Woman's Home of Georgetown and the Lutz's

If a place was more than two centuries old, was once home to a distinguished DC family, held connections to President Washington and President Lincoln, and served as a home to the elderly for over 150 years, it would be a very special place. 

Perched higher and standing back from a long line of commercial buildings below it, such a place is the Aged Woman’s Home of Georgetown (1255 Wisconsin Avenue).   Its setting, further obscured behind a tree, serves as a metaphor for its forgotten history.

Thanks to the kindness of one of its staff members, I was able to take the first steps to learn more about the Lutz family, who, before moving to the city of Washington, lived at this dwelling in the first half of the nineteenth century.    

The early details of the family, especially around the first John Lutz, are fuzzy.  We do know Lutz family members lived at 1255 Wisconsin from about 1805 to 1868.   In 1868, the Female Union Benevolent Society (became the Aged Woman’s Home in 1914) acquired the dwelling from the family.   As noted by the Aged Woman's Home website, the home "offers, free of charge, a private room for senior citizens, as well as emotional support and the benefits of group living."

A HABS report says the house is “probably one of the earliest extant structures in Georgetown, is one of the few residences in the commercial district, and a portion of this building has a rare flounder half gable, alleged to date from 1756.”  An addition was made in 1870 to the front and in 1872 to the rear.   

 

Affixed to the front of the home is an historical marker.  It tells the reader: 

“From 1804 to 1841, the home of John Lutz, Sergeant of General Washington’s Guard at Valley Forge.  Placed by The Historians and USA Bicentennial Committees - District of Columbia, DAR, 1970.”   

This is the puzzling part of the story.   Our searches for information on this John Lutz came up empty.  

Things begin to clear up with John Lutz (1775-1841), perhaps the son of the above mentioned John Lutz.   He became a well-known saddler and harness maker in Georgetown and served on boards with John Marbury and Francis Scott Key.  In their collections, Mount Vernon has a campaign trunk probably used by Washington in the Revolutionary War.  In 1820, Elizabeth Parke Custis had the lining refurnished.  The Lutz shop label is affixed inside.

 

 

There are several other relics in this story.   The first has been cared for by the Aged Woman’s Home.   In their possession is a framed copy of a letter written by Elizabeth Parke Custis.  The date is April 14, 1828.   It’s addressed to the two sons of John Lutz — John S. Lutz (1813-1869) and Francis Asbury Lutz (1820-1885).   An attached note shows it was written in Washington and delivered in June by Captain William Tell Poussin (1794-1876).   Guillaume Tell Poussin (1794–1876) was a French topographical engineer who helped survey the waterways and roads of the US.

Custis, the eldest grandchild of Martha Washington, began by writing: 

I have long intended to offer my good friend, Mr. John Lutz, a present, which he would not only value as a gift from one of the children of his General, but more so, because it once belonged to him. 

She went on to say: 

You must call to see me sometimes, my good friend.  We will talk of your general.  My health I believe, will never be good again.

John Lutz (1775-1841) passed away in 1841.  He had two sons, John and Francis.   Both earned some level of fame and carried the Lutz family story forward. 

John S. Lutz (1813-1869) went off to the Big Apple and struck up a relationship with Laura Keene.  (Note:  Two excellent biographies are, “Our American Duchess:  A Biography of Laura Keene" by Vernanne Bryan and "Laura Keene: Actress, Innovator and Impresario" by Ben Graf Henneke.) 

Keene earned fame on the big stages and was also a pioneer as a woman owner of a theatre in New York.  John was her watchful eye and indefatigable manager.   Keene and Lutz probably stayed in the Lutz house on occasion, but they were on the road a lot.   They had no children together, but Keene had two daughters (Emma and Clara) from a previous marriage and Lutz had Adelaide from his marriage to Malvina.   

Deeds show John giving the home on Wisconsin Avenue (then High Street) to Adelaide in 1851.  In 1872,  Adelaide deeded the property to the Trustees of the Female Union Benevolent Society.    One can conjecture with some degree of confidence that without their ownership, this dwelling might have been demolished.  

On the night of April 14, 1865, after John Wilkes Booth mortally wounded President Lincoln at Ford's Theatre, Keene, starring in the lead actress role (Florence) of “Our American Cousin,” ran from the stage to comfort the President.  She later gave her blood-stained cuffs (the second relic) to Morris Adler, a clerk in the War Department who had married Malvina Lutz (1810-1855), a daughter of John Lutz the Saddler.   The Adlers lived at a handsome brick dwelling at 1821 Wisconsin Avenue, that was demolished in 1938.

Adler remarried to Mary Kurtz (1815-1898).  Their grand daughter, Virginia Adler Thompson (1879-1962) donated the cuffs to the Smithsonian, who have displayed it from time to time.  Ford’s Theater has also displayed them.

The web site Glover Park History (Carlton Fletcher) tells us about a leather-covered wooden box dated 1838.   It belonged to Adler and was manufactured by John Lutz (resists quip about Adler and Saddler…).  This trunk is on display and in the good hands of the Peabody Room at the Georgetown branch of the DC Library.

The other son of John Lutz was Francis Asbury Lutz (1820-1885).   Like his brother, he was probably born in the family home on Wisconsin.   In 1853, Francis moved the Georgetown store his father started to Washington.   Under his management, and then that of his son Francis Jr (1843-1903), the family established one of the finest Harness, Saddlery & Trunks outfits in Washington.

Perhaps Francis and his family attended a “Humorous Lecture” in Georgetown on the night of February 22, 1868.  The great quipper, Mark Twain, drew laughs and spoke on the topic of the Sandwich Islands.  The marquee event was held at Forrest Hall (now a Gap store), a stone’s throw from the Lutz House.  

In what was Twain’s last public lecture in Washington, monies earned were donated to the Female Union Benevolent Society of Georgetown, who was renting the Lutz House.   Britannia Kennon (1815-1911), the wife of Commodore Beverly Kennon (commandant of the Navy), the mistress of Tudor Place, and the daughter of Martha Custis Peter, and, most famously, a granddaughter of Martha Washington (Martha and Thomas Peter built and lived in Tudor Place), served as its President from 1879 to 1911.    Perhaps one or members of the Lutz family visited the Kennons at Tudor Place.  

Although Keene and John were not in Washington a lot, Henneke tells us John and Francis had a cordial relationship.   It could have been torn asunder when their father willed his estate not to John, the eldest, but to Francis.   John headed for New York where he met Keene.   She had a remarkable career on stage.    It was a vagabond existence, but Keene showed complete concern and care for her two daughters from her first marriage, Laura and Emma.  She enrolled them at the Ladies Academy of the Visitation in Georgetown.   Francis enrolled one of his daughters there, too.   

Where John had no children with Laura, Francis and Nellie begot five who lived beyond childhood.  The 1870 Census shows the family as:  Francis (50), Mary (47), Francis A. (28), John A. (25), Mary E. (19), Samuel (17), Ada (15), and Adelaide (28).   Adelaide was the daughter of John and Malvina.   

Their home was at the corner of C and Four and a Half Streets.   This put them in position A in the Judiciary Square neighborhood, about halfway between the White House and the Capitol, and the center of the city.   Before it began to fade, the downtown neighborhood was one of the most fashionable residential sections in Washington.   Former residents included Chief Justice John Marshall, Henry Clay, and Francis Scott Key.   Elegant Blagden Row ran nearby.   

Salmon P. Chase lived at 6th and E streets in an handsome Greek Revival house.   A great social event took place there, giving the war-weary administration and city a brief distraction.  On November 12, 1863, Chase’s (Secretary of Treasury, 1861-1864) oldest daughter Kate married William Sprague, wealthy Senator of Rhode Island.   The wedding was a trifecta for head turning with Chase’s political stature, Sprague’s wealth, and Kate as the city’s premiere socialite.  President Lincoln attended.

Salmon P. Chase and daughters, one of them Kate. , . [No Date Recorded on Caption Card] Photograph. https://www.loc.gov/item/cph6238/.

 

The site of the family home is somewhere close to the John Marshall Statue at C and 4th.  Steps away stood the Metropolitan Memorial Methodist Church.   Dedicated in 1869, the church was a towering landmark.   One source called it "the Westminster Abbey of American Methodism."   Its first service drew 2,000 including President Grant, Chief Justice Chase, a large number of senators and representatives and other distinguished guests from the across the country.   (Demolished in 1956). 

From an article in the Evening Star, we know Francis served on the church board with Grant and Chase and Washington mayor Matthew G. Emery.   Without a doubt, this was a high point of pride for the Lutz family.

A reporter for the Evening Star described the Lutz house as follows:

Standing high on a terraced lot at the NE corner of 4 1/2 streets is an old-fashioned brick house which was one of the most pretentious homes in Washington fifty years ago.   John Quincy Adams once lived in it.  It is four stories high and has a mansard roof. Originally it had a gabled roof.  This was changed by the late F. A. Lutz, when he bought the property in 1861.  Gottlieb C. Grammar (DC banker) lived in this house for thirty years before his death in 1857. Issac Torrey, Secretary of Navy, also lived in the house.

The Lutz family made the society news from time to time.  A January 2nd, 1872 report said:

We venture the assertion that there was no finer reception given yesterday in all Washington than that of Mrs F A Lutz at her princely residence, corner of C and Four and a Half Streets.   

Across the span of three generations, the Lutz family earned praise as makers and sellers in the saddle and harness business.   John Lutz (1775-1841) would have been proud of his descendants.   Francis, his son Francis Jr, and his grandson Francis III kept things going in fine fashion.   An article in 1853 reported on "Awards of the Metropolitan Mechanics Institute."   Francis won "first diploma for buggy harness, somerset saddle, gig saddle and and second diploma for shaftoe saddle."

The Washington Evening Star sang the praises of F.A. Lutz Jr. & Bros, noting “every President from Washington to Roosevelt has been a patron, and enrolled on their books are the names of cabinet members, ambassadors, and diplomats of world-wide fame.”  Francis’s two eldest sons, Frank (1843-1878) and John (1845-1878), helped run the business. 

“Luggage and Leather Goods,” (Volumes 25-25, 1909) wrote:

“Today, the business is one of Washington’s prominent enterprises and is carried on successfully by the fourth generation of the Lutz family — a record unparalleled in the trunk trade of America.” 

In 1906, the company moved to 1325 G Street in a new three-story building.   

In 1925, Corinne Frazier, a writer with The Washington Post, sat down with the shop’s musty old ledgers and found the accounts of President Lincoln and Booth.   The President overpaid his account by 1 cent, and died before he made any more purchases.   Booth purchased a pair of spurs the day before he ended the President’s life.   

Seemingly something out of a script, Robert E. Lee’s account showed 37 cents in the deficit.

Part of the Lutz story made its way to Leesburg after the Civil War.   The youngest son of Francis Asbury Lutz was Samuel (1853-1918).  He and his family acquired and remodeled Springwood in the Second Empire style in 1869.     The landmark home was built c. 1840 by George Washington Ball (1828-1889).  The Lutz family made it their home and wedded there until at least 1946.   Today the three-story dwelling houses a health facility on the outskirts of the town.     

In 1925, The Washington Post published a story of the letter Elizabeth Parke Custis had written to John and Francis, the one displayed at the Aged Woman's Home in Georgetown.   The article pointed out the letter was in the possession of Frank Lutz, Jr (1874-1933) of Woodside, Maryland.    He was a great grandson of John Lutz (1775-1841), grandson of Francis Asbury Lutz (1820-1855), and son of Francis Jr (1843-1903).  Along with the letter, Elizabeth Parke Custis had given the family some buttons from George Washington's uniform.  The buttons were in the hands of Samuel’s widow, Mary Ida Lutz (1853-1943).

In 1936, Jessie Fant Evans (Evening Star) sat down with John A. Lutz (1884-1955) at his home at 1812 Monroe Avenue.    She told her readers he was the last of the family's male line.   John showed Evans his collection of Washingtonia, which included copies of letters and portraits. When John passed away in 1955, his obituary told the reader he was "an old time auto race driver here in the early days of motoring" and winner of several Silver Cups.   His house at 1812 Monroe Street NW, where he lived for 45 years, still stands.

Lutz family members continued to make the news from time to time.  John's sister Eleanor (1885-1960) married Richard Wilmer Bolling (1879-1951), who was a brother of Edith Wilson, second wife of President Wilson.   At the time of his passing, he was living with her at the Wilson home in Washington.

In 1946, readers of the Loudoun News (November 28) saw a front page story that led with:

"One of Loudoun's most beautiful estates, Springwood, was sold at public auction."   

Leta Lutz Clagett (1878-1948), daughter of Samuel (1853-1918) and Mary (1853-1943) acquired the family home.    She passed away two years later.   

One of the last obituaries in The Washington Post to mention the family history came on July 23, 1960.   Eleanor Lutz Bolling (1885-1960) had passed away (2219 California Street, NW).   It pointed out she was "a great, great, grand daughter of John Lutz who served with George Washington at Valley Forge and settled in Georgetown after the Revolution." 

 

John and Eleanor and Leta and that line of the family had lived long, full lives.  They witnessed the end of the saddle and trunk era, one that had been so much a part of the landscape of the colonies and the United States.    Many of the Lutz family members were laid to rest in Oak Hill Cemetery in Georgetown.   Not far away lies the house on Wisconsin Avenue where their story began.   The house is a special place and the story of the family is special, too.  

Note:   Oak Hill Cemetery records show the family having two places there -  Chapel Hill, 565 and Chapel Valley, 415.

I took the above photo of the Lutz family obelisk.  It is located at the Chapel Hill lot.   As you can see it is down the hill from the chapel, about 50 yards away.

The two slabs are shown at Find a Grave to be John (1775-1851) and Mary (1783-1851).  

On the obelisk is:

Francis A. Lutz (1820-1885), Mary (Wife, 1823-1897)

John A. Lutz (1878, In His 33 Year)

James F. Lutz (1847-1861), Ella Virginia Lutz (1857-1862), Oydanna C. Lutz (1864-1865), Clara Lutz (1861-1865)

Find a Grave shows for John S. Lutz (1813-1869) having an unmarked burial in Chapel Hill.  

 

The Lighthouse at Fort Washington

So close (2,000 feet), yet so far (16 miles) seems to be the case with Fort Washington Park, at least as you see it from the Virginia side.  Been many moons since we went so a return trip beckoned.

George Washington passed by here a number of times on the ferry ride to and from the Piscataway village and then parts eastward to Annapolis.  He also turned and went to Port Tobacco and further southward to see family or duty at Williamsburg.  Washington knew Thomas Attwood Digges (1742-1821) and his family who lived at Warburton Manor (site near the fort) and sold part of their lands to the US government for a fort.

In his diary (November 3, 1793), Washington described this part of the Potomac (Digges Point) as, “remarkably well calculated for a Battery.” Thomas Jefferson echoed this (January 31, 1808):  “Digges Point below Alexandria is a commanding position.”

The knoll is one of the higher and steeper ones in this part of the Potomac where the river makes a sharp turn.   Perhaps Washington would be pleased one still today sees mostly water, trees and sky.   River Farm, the GW Parkway, Piscataway Park, and two long expanses of the mighty river are part of the landscape.

The history of the fort has been summarized by the NRHP, but the form notes the lighthouse is not within the jurisdiction of the National Park Service and does not contribute to theme of site as significant military structure.

There are quite a few resources on the web, but they don’t all agree at times, and there seems to be no definitive effort. We’ll try our best to find middle ground.   LighthouseFriends bathed light on the subject and Frederick Tilp’s “This Was Potomac River” is a trusty beacon.  Other sources include Chesapeake Chapter United States Lighthouse Society, 1933 HABS report (“Fort Washington, Fort Washington Light, Northeast side of Potomac River at Fort Washington Park), Mid-Atlantic Lighthouses published by Bella Terra and "Light 80," an article at NPS.   "The Lighthouses of the Chesapeake" by Robert de Gast answered questions.

Construction of the fort began in 1808, but it was destroyed by retreating American forces under the command of Captain Samuel Dyson on August 27, 1814.   The new fort was completed in 1824, but there would be on going repairs in the coming years.   The NRHP points out little work was done on the fort from 1848 to 1861 and it was unoccupied from 1853 to 1861. 

Tilp tells us:

“lighthouses have always symbolized integrity, constance, reliability, and succor when it was most needed, but those on the Potomac have not always measured up to the best.”

In 1851, in the wake of a scathing report by the Secretary of Treasury, Congress created the Lighthouse Board.   In 1857, one year after the completion of the lighthouse at Jones Point, an eighteen and a half feet cast iron pole with a light on top was built along the wharf at Fort Washington to aid the captains and watermen.   Although this was a navigating aid, it was not a lighthouse in the traditional sense.  One source called it a “feeble illuminating apparatus.” 

Skippers complained about the inadequacy of the light at this key turning point of the river.   In response, a sixteen-foot tower rose up closer to the water’s edge in 1870.   It was built elsewhere and shipped to the site.   de Gast says this was “the first real lighthouse at Fort Washington.”  It was shorter than the first, but placing it closer to the water’s edge was an improvement.   It had a 6th-order Fresnel lens that is displayed at the Museum of Chincoteague Island.   

Construction of several sheds and boathouses obstructed the light.  In 1882, a thirty-two foot fog bell tower was added (the current one).    The HABS report points out it was rare for a fog bell tower to support both a light and fog signal.  Most became obsolete.  In 1884, a keeper’s house was built.   A photo at Lighthouse Friends shows a two-story dwelling of some size with a picket fence.

The fort sat quiet from 1872 to 1896 when it was reactivated. In May, 1898, The Washington Post reported the Commander of the Fifth Lighthouse District ordered the light be discontinued as well as the fog bell sounding at night.   This came at a time during the Spanish-American War.   He wrote:

“Should a warship of the enemy manage to reach a point so high in the river the light at Fort Washington would have served as an excellent guide for firing."

In 1901, “four new caps were put on the sills of the fog bell tower and a platform was built on them to support a lens lantern.”   The old tower was demolished as well as the keeper’s house.   In 1904, the tower was enclosed in wood.   

In 1920, the light was made electric and the color changed from white to red.  The following year an electric bell striker was installed in the tower, hitting every 15 seconds.   Steven L. Markos notes it still required a light keeper who was also responsible for two dozen other lighthouses.

Tilp tells us that in 1921, Fort Washington became home of the 12th Infantry.   The commander warned the keepers “about their activities as go-betweens for the soldiers as well as in their supplying sugar for the local river moonshiners.”

In 1946, the National Park Service gained control of the lighthouse.   Tilp’s research shows the last keeper being Mrs. Josephine Ekland in 1953 and the penultimate Jean Marie Roest.  The first was Joseph Cameron.

In the 1954, the light was changed to an unmanned automatic flashing red light.  The wharf and keeper’s house were removed. 

In June 1963, the light house made the front page of the Evening Star, with a large photo showing two children beside it.  The caption said:

“Beacon for Tourists. The lighthouse at Fort Washington on the Maryland side of the Potomac southeast of the Nation’s Capital, holds the attention of Richard Gardner and Debbie Kramer of Westchester Estates, Md, just two of the visitors who tour the historic fort at the rate of about 10,000 a week during the summer.” 

There were no visitors after 9/11/2001.   Markos writes that the military took over and used it as a radar tower until 2005.   The fog bell tower was returned to NPS control and restored in 2009 by their Historic Preservation Training Center.  In 2020, the United States Coast Guard removed the light and the triangle red marker.  The tower remains standing in its original place, the sole sentinel of a lost past. 

Historical marking is good for the fort, but none for the lighthouse.   Our recommendation is a marker or two showing a timeline with images and perhaps publication of an updated definitive source.     

Hopefully, that is not as far away as it seems…

Neighborhood Visit: Franconia

Note:  I completed this article last fall, but overlooked posting it.  My sincerest apologies.

 

Throughout the past ten or so years, a great source of our pleasure has been Beth Mitchell’s 1760 map of Fairfax County.   Sprinkled on it like magic dust are churches, ordinaries, mills, roads, and tobacco inspection stations.   

Because they take us to a body of water, we particularly enjoy visiting the sites of mills.  Our latest look see took place in Franconia, a roughly 450-acre section bounded by I-95, Van Dorn Street, Franconia Road, and the rail tracks.  It’s a collection of smaller neighborhoods such as Franconia Forest, Runnymeade, and Van Dorn Village.

Mitchell’s map shows a mill about three miles west of Alexandria.   The modern day location is somewhere near Langton Road.   This mill site stands out as the rare case of homes being built right by and around its site.   Most of the others in the county are on the long run of a creek.  This is a small branch.

Anyway, we offer the following timeline for this part of Franconia.  Many thanks to Carl Sell, volunteer at the Franconia Museum, author and former editor of the Washington Star.  We also spent some time with Mary Smith, who shared a few of her memories of living near the railroad station and visiting Alexandria in the 1950s.   What a treasure you have Franconia, you don’t know how lucky you are. 

 

1706

John West, Thomas Pearson and William and Thomas Harrison acquire land west of Alexandria and south of Back Lick Run, an extension of Great Hunting Creek.

1760s

Land owned by John Monroe, who owned three enslaved humans.  Leased by Thomas Monroe.  George Washington sold him 16 yards of cotton in 1767.  Mill on Mitchell’s map. 

Note: (I took this photo earlier this week.  It's hard to know the exact site of the mill.  This is looking east towards Langston Drive).

1800s

Roads expand in the county.  Fairfax Road (modern day Franconia Road and formerly a rolling road for tobacco), laid out connecting Alexandria with points to the west. 

Church worship begins at Olivet Church, which has had several locations.

1860s

Land owners include Elizabeth Broders, James Talbot, Thompson Javins, Peter Tresler and Virginia Scott.  Scott was probably the widow of Richard Marshall Scott, a descendent of Richard Marshall Scott (1769-1833), who lived at Bush Hill (site is 4840 Eisenhower Avenue).  The Broders family was well known in Alexandria.  Joseph Broders lived at 215 N. Washington, the lovely brick Greek-Revival dwelling known as the Hallowell-Carlin House. 

Note: Photo, Bush Hill Franconia Museum. 

Civil War

Anyone living here during the Civil War would have had a bird’s eye view of the Cameron Valley, where troops marched to and from Alexandria along the Little River turnpike, as well as movements along what is now Franconia Road.   Troop movement also on modern day Beulah Street.   Farmers here would have heard the sound of cannon fire at the two battles of Manassas and whispered stories of Colonel John Mosby, the famed "Gray Ghost" who knew these parts like the back of his hand.  Enslaved African Americans might have fled to Alexandria. hoping to taste freedom.

 

1872

Franconia and this part of Northern Virginia is forever changed. Franconia Station is built as part of establishment of continuous rail service from Richmond to Alexandria.  Prior to this, passengers deboarded at Aquia Creek and took steamboats Washington.  

Note:  I took this photo on Tuesday, October 19.  The two left tracks are for Metro.  The other three are for Amtrak, VRE, and CRX.  The site of the Franconia Station (1904-1954) is about where the first large telephone pole is on the right hand side.

1900

Roads are modern day Franconia, Van Dorn and Larkspur.  Structures along Fairfax Road (Franconia).

1914

Craven Simms (74) passes away at his home in Franconia.  He was an attendant at the Alexandria farmer's market for many years. 

Photo:  Simms House, Franconia Museum

1937

Camp Kiwanis, summer retreat for children.

1945

Modern day Valley View Drive and some new homes along it.

Camp Kiwanis (near end of Cobbs Road) 

1951

Mt. Hebron Park and Franconia Hills homes along Valley View Drive.  Camp Kiwanis.

1956

Maple Grove Estates ads in Washington Post. 

1957

Franconia Baptist Church

1962-1964

Capital Beltway built.  Along with the railroad tracks, this creates a two-sided, no-cross border.

1964

Homes on Larkspur built with Maple Grove farm still there beside it.

1966

More homes in Mt. Hebron Park.

Maple Grove Estates fully line Larkspur.

1964 ad gives the following directions:

South on Shirley Highway to Springfield-Franconia exit, east on Franconia Road 2 miles to Maple Grove entrance on left (directly across from Franconia Elementary School, proceed to Larkspur Dr.  Wills and Van Metre builders.

1984

Homes built between Valley View and RR tracks.

1988

Homes built along Langton Drive, near mill site and creek.

2002

Sycamores at Van Dorn and mixed use on both sides of  Oakwood Drive.  Site of former farm, home demolished c. 1980s, the last vestiges of the older places.

Lincoln’s Allee: Four “Stripped Classicism” Buildings within the Northwest Rectangle Historic District

“Washington, DC is the nation’s finest urban achievement.” --  Prologue, “Worthy of the Nation, Washington DC from L’Enfant to the National Capital Planning Commission”

"To a designer in the City Beautiful tradition, the urban experience was to be realized on foot."  --  “Worthy of the Nation"

 

Last month when I visited the Mall during Memorial Day, part of my walk included a stroll down Constitution Avenue between 17th and 23rd.  Though the years, countless commuters and visitors have passed along this main stretch north of the Mall and a gateway into the nation's capital.   We’ve certainly done so a time or two, but it was only by walking that I began to appreciate and see more than just a glimpse of the impressive set of buildings set back on the north side.   

Washington architecture and art critic Benjamin Forgey described this setting as a “Beaux Arts allee, a unique little stretch.”  Unique, for sure, but there might not be any other stretch (in this case six blocks) in the monumental core where public knowledge of the names of the buildings is so low.   Roberta and I have been here 27 years and of the six buildings on this stretch, I only knew the Federal Reserve.

Here, then, is a brief look at four of these buildings which were built in the 1920s and 1930s in the Stripped Classicism style, and are located between 19th and 23rd.     

 

We’ll never know what Pierre L’Enfant thought of the City Beautiful movement that inspired urban planning in the city he sketched out a century earlier.   But his ideas and concepts were certainly a guiding hand used by planners in Washington.   Throughout much of the first half of the twentieth century, implementation of the McMillan Plan transformed large swaths of the central part of the city.   The Federal Triangle and its set of massive governmental buildings come to mind, as well as the remaking of the Mall and construction of Federal buildings south of the Mall. 

Seemingly lost in the shuffle of memory is the Northwest Rectangle.    Many may not know there is a Northwest Rectangle Historic District, much less that it was built in part to frame the Lincoln Memorial.   Even those who work here, who enter on the C Street side, may not have ever taken a stroll on the Constitution Street side. 

As far as what was here before, this part of the district was once a stream bed and tidal flat.  This portion of Constitution (then B Street) runs where the waters of the Washington City Canal flowed into the city.   The Lock Keeper’s House at 17th and Constitution tells some of its story.

Near that same intersection is the site of the home of David Burnes, a Maryland planter and one of the original proprietors of the new Federal district.  With its distinct pre-Washington look and feel, the dwelling stood there from 1760 to 1894.   The Burnes home was one of the oldest in the city.   The highly revered Van Ness mansion also stood near the corner of Constitution and 17th Street.    The only thing left from those days of old is the Van Ness House stable (1816), which was reconstructed and incorporated into the grounds of the Pan American Union Building.

In our time we see the Lincoln Memorial as a monument connected not to Constitution Avenue, but the linear landscape of the Mall and the Memorial Bridge.   In the 1920s, however, planners were focused on this stretch as part of framing the Lincoln Memorial.    In a major shift, planners had decided to put Federal and public building west of the White House instead of east of the Capitol.    The Federal Government was growing and larger central buildings were needed to replace older offices scattered about.

Note:  The National Mall does not include West Potomac Park, but for simplification purposes, we use that term.   West Potomac Park runs from the Lincoln Memorial to the grounds of the Washington Monument.

 

After the Lincoln Memorial was dedicated in 1922, the Commission of Fine Arts began to look at the north side of Constitution between 17th and 24th Avenue.   The CFA had been created by Congress in 1910 to “protect the goals introduced by the McMillan study.”   The nomination form tells us the CFA, “concentrated particularly on the design and construction of the Lincoln Memorial and the landscape of West Potomac Park.”   

The McMillan Plan had enlarged the Mall to the west, but planning and deciding what went where took some time.   The first buildings to arise in what became the Northwest Rectangle were the Corcoran Gallery of Art (1897), Pan American Union (1910), DAR Memorial Hall (1910), American Red Cross HQ (1917), and the Department of Interior (1915-1917).    Those buildings are a part of the Northwest Rectangle, but they form its eastern most part and are connected to the White House and the Ellipse.   

What got the National Capital Parks and Planning Commission more focused on the area between 17th and 23rd was the housing needs of the Navy and War Departments.   With the Federal Triangle mostly filled up with other departments, the NCPPC set its sites on the Northwest Building Area, which became the Northwest Rectangle.   They began their efforts in 1931.   Frederick Law Olmsted Jr. prepared the formal recommendations for a “sophisticated grouping of buildings” that was similar in concept to the Federal Triangle.”    

 

National Academy of Sciences Building

2101 Constitution Avenue

1924

Early Stripped Classicism

 

The first building to more closely frame the Lincoln Memorial, which stood like a lonely sentinel in its early years, was the National Academy of Science Building.  The organization had begun in 1863, and was housed in the Smithsonian.  Their new building was dedicated in April 1924.

The Washington Post reported:

Standing high in its architectural splendor in a setting of green and looking out on the Lincoln memorial only a few hundred feet away, science’s new temple — a monument to progress — was dedicated by President Coolidge.  Attending the ceremonies were scientists from all parts of the country.

The prolific Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue’s design was an “original interpretation of the Neo-Classic design.”   His "creative solution combined the regularities of Classicism with his own preference for “irregular” forms.”  This novel synthesis came to be known as the “Alexandrian” style.”  Sadly, Goodhue passed away just a few days before the grand opening.

The landscape plan was “suggestive of the Lincoln Memorial grounds.”   The walkway extends for over 200 feet, a signature element of all four of the buildings we are looking at.   

Wings were added to the building in the 1960s.  It got a 50th birthday gift of sorts, added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.  The Albert Einstein Memorial, unveiled in 1979 to commemorate the centennial of his birth, is located on the Academy grounds.

A marker points out the National Academy of Science established the National Academy of Engineering, the Institute of Medicine, and the National Research Council. Another says these organizations are dedicated to the furtherance of science, engineering, and medicine to the public welfare.

 

American Pharmacists Association HQ

(American Institute of Pharmacy)

2215 Constitution Avenue

1933

Early Stripped Classicism

In 1931, seven years after the National Academy of Science building opened, the National Capital Planning  Commission voted to adopt the Northwest Rectangle Plan.  It would eventually encompass the six buildings fronting Constitution between 17th and 24, others on C Street, as well as the aforementioned group facing 17th Street.  

As noted by the nomination form, the ones on Constitution would pay tribute to classical principles, while reducing the ornamentation and application of columns.  "Classicism Lite," if you will.  Unlike the Federal Triangle, a notable portion of landscaping surrounded the buildings.  The long staircases are also a standout feature.

The National Academy of Science building had kicked things off this way in 1924.  In 1933, two more in this style were completed.   On the corner of 24th and Constitution Avenue arose the American Institute of Pharmacy.   

Of the four buildings we are looking at, the APA building is the smallest.  This “pretty little building” was designed by John Russell Pope as a “temple to pharmacy.”  The organization dates back to 1798 with the establishment of the Marine Hospital Service.   The new name came in 1912.   

Dedicated in May, 1934, the building was made of with Vermont marble. The long sloping lawn “mimics the siting of the Lincoln Memorial.”  The entry is “embellished with allegorical bas-reliefs to portray the progress of pharmacy as well as Light and Hope.”  The building possesses a “formal Palladian pavilion-like quality.” 

At the dedication, Sir Henry Wellcome was honored with the Remington Medal, given for the greatest contribution to the profession of pharmacy in America.  The Wellcome Trust is one of the wealthiest charitable foundations in the world.

The Evening Star pointed out it the building stood “in the shadow of the great Lincoln Memorial” and was “the first imposing structure one sees coming across the Arlington Memorial Bridge into Washington (seemingly forgetting the Lincoln Memorial).  They also noted widening of Constitution Avenue was taking place at that time.   

According to Potomac View Terrace, the building is the only privately-owned real estate on the National Mall.   The expanded building, completed in 2009, is LEED certified and includes the Potomac View Terrace, which is situated on the 6th floor.   The 200 foot long front stairs is a somewhat unique feature.  A marker was recently installed that pays tribute to "Covid-19 Heroes."

 

 

 

3.  U.S. Public Health Service

Interior Department South

Federal Reserve-East

1931

Moving companies must have loved this building.  Its occupants have been the US Public Health Service (1933-1942, 1946-1947), the headquarters of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, Atomic Energy Commission (1947-1958), the National Science Foundation (1958-1965), the Department of the Interior (1965-2018), and the Federal Reserve Board of Governors (2018-current).   The Department of Interior’s move in 1965 here prompted a name change to Interior South, an annex for the department’s large HQ facing C Street. 

Knowing jobs would be available in the growing nation’s capital, architects made their way to Washington in the 1930s.   One of them was Jules Henri de Sibour, who came by way of Paris and New York.  His works include the French Embassy, and Oxon Hill Manor. 

The Evening Star noted the million dollar building held “an air of quiet dignity” and exemplified modern developments in lighting and other health and comfort features.”   The E-shaped building is also formed in marble.   

This organization goes back to the Marine Hospital Service in 1798.    It gained its current name in 1912.   Housed in five different buildings, they needed a bigger central place. 

In 1968, the Department of Interior/Bureau of Indian Affairs moved their offices here.  Four summers later, about 500 native Americans, who represented a coalition of 250 tribes, barricaded themselves inside.  The leaders called for the "abolition of the bureau and creation of a new agency more responsive to their needs."

In 1978 the building was renovated extensively.   In 2018, the building was vacated and was transferred to the Federal Reserve Board of Governors (new name is Federal Reserve Board-East and is currently seeing renovation work.

 

Federal Reserve (Eccles Building)

Constitution Avenue

1937

Early Stripped Classicism

 

Given the weight of its voice, one would think the Federal Reserve would be located closer to the center of action in Washington.  Then again, maybe this quiet and leafy spot is better as a place to try and make calm decisions.

This was the last building constructed on Constitution between 17th and 24th.   From 1913 to 1937, the Board of Governors had met in the US Treasury Building and the employees worked at three different locations across the city.   According to the Reserve website, the Banking Act of 1935 centralized control of the Federal Reserve System and put the Board of Governors at the helm.   

The designer was Paul H. Cret.  Like deSibour, Cret was born in France and came from the Northeast (Philadelphia).   His designs in Washington include this one and the Pan American Union Building three doors down, as well as the Folger Shakespeare Library and the Duke Ellington Bridge.   

As was the case with the other buildings beside it, this one takes a Stripped Classicism  approach with limestone.  And like the others, the Commission of Fine Arts approved its design. 

As the Society of Architectural Historians website points out, the external appearance of the building was so progressive that the AIA Journal reported, “This would appear to indicate that the reign of the column and pediment is nearing its close, even in Washington.”

As was the case with the other buildings beside it, this one has had a quiet front, with car parking underground and entering from the C Street side.   Like the American Pharmacy Association building, this one has a long marbled walk.   Sidney Waugh designed the eagle sculpture above the entrance.  Bronze windows are “separated by spandrels of polished Swedish granite, on which the bronze plaques are mounted.”

FDR dedicated the building.   In her paper, “Paul Cret and the Federal Reserve Board Building,” Elizabeth Grossman tells the reader Roosevelt “associated the austere marble building, with the “increased power” given to the system under the New Deal Banking Acts.   The new legislation “shifted power to Washington, DC” and the new building “symbolized both a more powerful Board of Governors within the Fed itself.”

In 1982, the building was named for Marriner S. Eccles, who had served as Chairman of the Board from 1934 to 1948.   The Fed is expanding and is expected to occupy the former Public Health Service building to its east.

 

Conclusion:

It’s hard to know what the future holds for this stretch of Constitution Avenue.  There are empty spaces nearby — one west of 23rd and one east of 23rd — that might be built upon. 

From a planning document, we know the Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System (Board) proposes to renovate and expand the Eccles Building and to renovate and construct an addition on the Federal Reserve Board-East Building (nee Public Health).   The proposal indicates the changes would infill and or behind the current buildings.   The view shed seems unlikely to change but purists might worry.

Our one request is the erection of an historical marker for each of these buildings.   The impact on the view shed would be very small and public knowledge would be increased.  Walkers, of course, would appreciate it the most.

 

 

 

 

The Wilsons and Hollin Hall III

In December, 1928, a number of distinguished guests including Vice President-elect Charles Curtis and Senator George H. Moses (President pro tem), gathered at a hill-top mansion in southeast Fairfax County.

Mount Vernon?  No.  Gunston Hall?  No.  Woodlawn?  No.  River Farm?  No.  Collingwood?  No. 

The glory of that day belonged to what is known today as Hollin Hall III.   Harley Peyton Wilson (1873-1934) and his wife built the three-story Colonial-style structure with 18 rooms and clapboard wings, completing it in 1920.

Still purposeful as a space for weddings, receptions, parties and rehearsal dinners, the manor sits tucked away just north of Sherwood Hall Lane and next to the Mount Vernon Unitarian Church (1099 Windmill Lane). The location is about three miles south of Alexandria and about a third of a mile north of a private home known historically as Hollin Hall I, the Spinning Room and Little Hollin Hall (1901 Sherwood Hall Lane).   The neighborhoods of Hollin Hall and Hollin Hills bookend Hollin Hall I and III.  

Fairfax County residents know a thing or two about the Mason footprints in this part of the county. In 1760, George Mason owned 8,280 acres, more than three times George Washington’s total before the future President acquired land from William Clifton and named it “River Farm.”  (Image:  An Interpretive Historical Map of Fairfax County, 1760 by Beth Mitchell).

Thomson Mason, a son of George Mason, and his family lived at Hollin Hall I.   Hollin Hall III sits on the site of Hollin Hall II, which burned down in the 1820’s.   Mason and his family were living there (Hollin Hall II), but had to move back to Hollin Hall I after the fire.

(Note:  Hollin Hall I is on the Fairfax County Inventory of Historic Sites.  It has gone through a number of changes from its first iteration.   The home is a private residence and can't be seen from the roads around it.)

Forgotten in these stories are the Wilsons.  And that’s somewhat ironic.  One can’t even see Hollin Hall I from the roads that surround it, but you can drive up the hill and see Hollin Hall III.   If you get lucky like I did the other day, Amanda Casey, the Rental Events Coordinator, will treat you like a guest.   You can walk the hilltop grounds, imagining the Wilson’s showing guests their English garden and the spread of land below when trees and homes did not block the views.

Northerners had been coming to Virginia for many years before the Wilsons arrived in the 1910s.   Before and after the Civil War, this part of the county had been influenced by Quakers.   In the 1890s, magnates from Pennsylvania had helped finance the new Washington, Alexandria, and Mount Vernon Electric Railway that ran about a half mile to the east of Hollin Hall I and the site of Hollin Hall II.

Born in New York in 1873, Harley Peyton Wilson built an impressive resume before coming to the former Mason land outside of Washington.   He became “one of the foremost public utilities organizers and executives in the country.”  He was also the principal owner of the Washington Rapid Transit Co. and a director in the Washington Railway & Electric Company.  In 1925, when the Washington region was in the midst of putting more and more buses on the roads, Wilson purchased 97% of the WRTC stock.   As pointed out by DC Preservation, “The all-bus WRTC inspired the growth of competition and encouraged expanded bus routes.” 

In 1913 Wilson acquired the Hollin Hall Farm that spread across land known today as the Hollin Hall neighborhood.  On that high point south of Alexandria, Wilson and his wife built their new home on or close to the site of Hollin Hall II.   They stayed at Hollin Hall I until their new home was completed in 1920.   In addition to the 18 room manor, they also built a guest house, carriage house and gardens.

Part of their bragging rights would have been pointing out or pointing to their proximity to the boats and steamers on the Potomac River, the electric trolley line (Belmont Station, modern day Alexandria Avenue), Mount Vernon and Woodlawn, and the road George Washington had used to get to Alexandria and points northward.  On its way to becoming a major thoroughfare (Route 1), the road was beginning to hold more and more automobiles.    Washington was in the midst of a boom that would take its population from 278,000 in 1900 to 437,000 in 1920.   As Smith and Miller note in A Seaport Saga, “As Alexandria entered the Roaring Twenties, it basked in the sunshine of peace and relative economic prosperity."

Readers of The Washington Post first read about the Wilsons in March, 1913.   Wilson had acquired the “historic Hollin Hall farm,” consisting of 300 acres.   Mrs. Wilson began to show up in the Alexandria Society sections.   Locals who could afford it were “motoring” to see relatives and friends, while the passages on the smoke-stacked ships still announced wealth. 

Coverage of the Wilson’s hosting and activities dotted the society section of The Washington Post, The Evening Star, and The Washington Times for the next twelve years.   In April 1926, William Gibbs McAdoo (1863-1941) and his family stayed a few days.  His wife Eleanor was the daughter of President Woodrow Wilson.   The marriage took place at the White House.  Eleanor wrote two books.   McAdoo’s resume included helping Wilson get elected.  His reward was an appointment as Secretary of the Treasury (1913-1918).   McAdoo would become Senator of California (1933-1938).

When they weren’t at home, the Wilsons traveled to New York, other esteemed summer places, and abroad.   In 1928, they visited France, Czechoslovakia, and Switzerland.  At one point, Mrs. Wilson divided her time between Hollin Hall and the swanky new Mayflower hotel in Washington, which became known as the “Grande Dame of Washington, D.C.”   She hosted a number of teas, including ones during the Virginia Historic Garden Week, as well as a Flower Show in May, 1933.

In October 1919, the Wilsons hosted Mr. and Mrs. William Cox.  He served as Secretary of Commerce under the Wilson administration. Other guests were former Governor (California) Frank and Mrs. Merriam, and General and Mrs. Arthur Murray. 

The Washington Post reported: 

Mr. and Mrs. Wilson are living in the old “spinning house” of the estate while their new manor is being completed.

 

The Wilsons continued to host throughout the 1920s and hit the big time in December 1928.   Entering the mansion was the Vice President-elect/Senator (Majority Leader) Charles Curtis (1860-1936), as well as Senators George Moses and Samuel Shortridge, Representative Adam Wyant and Wallace Dempsey, Justice Peyton Gordon, Judge Barley of Alexandria, and others such as Mr. Louis Hertle of Gunston Hall.   

Perhaps Hertle had a moment in the sun talking about Thomson Mason, (1759-1820), who served as Justice of the Peace in Fairfax County, State Senator (1800-1804), and delegate to the General Assembly.   Or maybe he pointed out that George and Martha Washington dined at Hollin Hall on March 19, 1798 and that Thomson and his wife Sarah dined at Mount Vernon on November 2, 1797. 

In January, 1929, the Wilsons hit another milestone when they entertained about 250 guests.  The Old Guard families in Alexandria -- the Smoots, the Leadbeaters, and others -- continued to make the society papers, but there’s no denying the Wilsons were stealing some of the show.   Country seats dotted the hills around Alexandria, but the Wilson’s had their new roomy place and high connections to Washington.   

The garden corps surely enjoyed the Wilson's garden.  A description given in 1941 described it as:

Wonderful cultivated gardens with their backgrounds of old boxwoods, clump shrubs, rose colored arbor, marble fountain and charming flower beds all surrounded by expansive lawns. 

Mrs. Wilson, who was born in Portland and grew up in Oakland, served in a number of leadership roles including President of the Fairfax Garden Club, Vice President for the Anne Lee Memorial Home of the Aged, and a member of the board of GW University Hospital.    At one event at their home, fifty percent of the proceeds went to the Wakefield Memorial Association.   Mrs. Wilson also donated a rare antique bowl and a silver bowl that served as prizes for winners at the Fairfax Garden Club Show in May 1931.

Although it was not the original one, “Hollin Hall” got attention in the newspapers.   The Seattle Times (June 22, 1928) wrote an article titled, “Washington’s Society Seeks Outdoor Life.” 

The Wilson’s entertained for the birthday anniversary of a cousin of the late Woodrow Wilson.   Friends stayed at the guest house, danced in bathing suits and listened to an orchestra.   

Coverage of the Wilson's was bountiful, but there was some confusion.  One report in 1932 said, "Hollin Hall, the home of Mr. and Mrs. Wilson, is one of the historic places of the Old Dominion."  Then again, confusion still exists today.    Hollin Hall I is on the Fairfax County Inventory of Historic Places, but a sign outside Hollin Hall III says “Hollin Hall."

Mrs. Wilson continued to make the Society news in 1933.  Then came sad news in 1934.  At age 57, she had drawn her last breathe at their home.   Surviving were Harley and her two sisters, Margaret Dieke and Mrs. Marcy C.  Hughes, who were living at the Wilson home.  Services were at Grace Episcopal Church in Alexandria and she was laid to rest at the Presbyterian Cemetery.

Harley joined her just a few months later.   He had bequeathed $1,000 to the Anne Lee Home for the Aged.    At his funeral, former Vice President Curtis was among the honorary pall bearers, along with Major General William Connor, Superintendent of West Point.

After the Wilsons passed away, the property did not have an occupant.   Then in 1941, Merle Thorpe, a writer, advisor to FDR and former editor of the magazine, The Nation’s Business, acquired the house.   The report was on the front page of the Evening Star’s Section B.    It described the dwelling as having colonial brick and a green slate roof and included the guest house, a hot house, cultivated gardens and a swimming pool.

The tradition of hosting continued in May, 1947, when Dr. Esther Cuakin Brunauer of the State Department was the guest speaker there at the installation meeting of the Washington Alumnae Chapter of Delta Gamma.   She was one of five women who had been selected by the Women’s National Press Club for outstanding service in 1946.

In December, 1958, the Mount Vernon Unitarian Church bought the home, the ten acres, the guest house, garage, and greenhouse.   By that time, suburban homes had sprouted up nearby, including the neighborhoods of Hollin Hall and Hollin Hills.  The latter offered mid-modern homes designed by Charles Goodman. 

In the 1960s, mansion homes south of Alexandria such as Mount Eagle, Spring Bank, and City View gave way to the tsunami of suburban growth.  Hollin Hall III might have gone down too, but the new church had come to its rescue.   As told at the Mount Vernon Unitarian Church website, the congregation began to meet in the late 1950s at the main room of the guesthouse.  A new church (meeting house) arose in 1985, just steps from Hollin Hall III.   

The tradition of hosting continues at the century old mansion with weekend rental events, mostly weddings.   We think the Wilsons would like knowing people still gather at the home they built and the place they nourished.

 

Note:  I would like to thank Susan Hellman for her assistance in understanding the history of Hollin Hall I; Amanda Casey, Events Coordinator, Hollin Hall and the Meeting House, for showing me inside Hollin Hall III; and David Heiby, Superintendent, Presbyterian Cemetery and Columbarium, for showing me where the Wilsons were laid to rest.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crossing the Occoquan

One of the things that fascinates me are places that hold some history, but are overlooked or seldom visited.   One such tucked away place is located in Woodbridge, south of the Occoquan River and west of Route One.   Railroad Avenue, Colchester Ferry Place and Potomac Path Drive of the Belmont Bay neighborhood hint at some of the forgotten history there.    

Before we get rolling, a tip of the hat to two main sources —Prince William County (map) drawn by Eugene Scheel (1992) and “Along the Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac RR” by William E. Griffin, Jr.   Also, a big thank you to Steven B. Shwartzman and his book, “Fortunate Son, Thomas Mason of Woodbridge.”

The Potomac Path starts this story, the colonial road (later known as the King’s Highway) the Virginia planters and others took to get from the Northern Neck to points northward.   Their seventeenth century forebears had not been interested in travel, and were annoyed when anyone crossed their plantation fields or wanted them to build a road. 

But the dependency on tobacco continued to wear out the fields.   Slowly, the gentry moved further and further away from Williamsburg and into the northern part of the colony.   In the second half of the seventeenth century, speculators acquired thousands of acres on or near Mason Neck and Great Hunting Creek.   One of the biggest purchase was made by Robert Howsing in 1669, 6,000 acres that would become land we now call Old Town Alexandria, Potomac Yard, Crystal City and Pentagon City.    

This movement led to the founding of Prince William County in 1731.   A marker at the corner of Route One and Annapolis Way tells us the first courthouse of the county stood 150 yards to the east.   That would put its site near the end of Colchester Ferry Place, a quiet place away from the rush of cars on Route One.    

Note:  It appears this marker was removed for current construction.

We know very little about the courthouse, but the book “Prince William:  A Past to Preserve” tells us a jail, pillory and stocks were also built beside the courthouse.   In his book, “The Courthouses of Early Virginia,” Carl P. Lounsbury notes the Prince William justices did not always bother to travel the far away distance.   Nevertheless, courthouses were critical to the needs of the people and were “symbolic manifestations of the authority” of the gentry and justices.

Putting a courthouse in a far corner of a new county might seem like an odd thing to do.   But as Donald Swieg explains (“Fairfax County, Virginia, A History”), the location of the courthouse made it easier for those wanting to ride and examine the lands north of the Occoquan.   A land boom led to the founding of Fairfax County in 1742, Alexandria in 1749 and Colchester in 1753.

Before it got to the Occoquan River, the Potomac Path skirted past many a shallowing creek that fed into the Potomac.   But as the Indigenous peoples knew, the Fall Line had created a gorge at the Occoquan.   Its waters did not thin out until a point well upstream.  Or as Edith Moore Spouse put it, the “Occoquan was no gentle stream.”  Given this lay of the land, there was no choice but to establish ferry service. 

The Mason family had a presence in this part of the colony.   Thomas Mason, the youngest son of George Mason of Gunston Hall, lived at a plantation south of the Occoquan.  Very little is known about it, but Steven B. Shwartzman (“Fortunate Son:  Thomas Mason of Woodbridge) shines some light.   He tells us Thomas Mason would have built his home on the highest ground available.   Its site could very well be where the Potomac Path approached the Occoquan.   Richard R. Mason later placed an ad in the Alexandria Gazette.  It described Woodbridge as the residence of the late Gerard Mason.  “It lies on the Occoquan River immediately opposite the village of Colchester and contains 500 acres of land.”   

Mason also operated a ferry.   Nothing visible remains, but in 1929, "The Rambler," a reporter for the Evening Star, found remains of a stone house near what is now a sanitary sewer pump just to the north of the end of Colchester Ferry Way.    Shwartzman hopes any future surveys there might identify the ferry house as well as the county courthouse.  Old Colchester Road ends at the Occoquan and gives one the sense of the Potomac Path.

Ferry service began at this location in 1684.   Thomas Mason was the fifth generation of Mason’s to operate the service.  One of his customer’s was George Washington.  In his book, “The Nine Lives of George Washington,” William Betts, Jr. writes about an incident there in 1791.  Four of George Washington’s horses slipped off the deck, but the carriage managed to stay on.    

A wooden toll bridge built in 1795 and replaced the ferry service.   Shwartzman gives an informative account.  He believes Timothy Palmer may have designed the span.   It went up around the same time as a wooden bridge at Little Falls.   A chain bridge replaced it, so we know the current span as Chain Bridge near Georgetown.

Mason’s bridge made it easier to cross the Occoquan, but heavy rains and flood waters wiped it out in 1807.   In some ways, this opened the door for Occoquan, located about a mile upstream.   John Ballendine had helped put the village on the map in the 1750s when he built two mills and a commodious stone home there.   Already prosperous, Occoquan gained the passenger and mail business. 

Woodbridge was never incorporated into a town like Occoquan.   But some rail buffs there might have jumped for joy in 1872 when passengers on the Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac could finally ride the rails all the way from Fredericksburg to Washington.  Previously, they disembarked at Aquia (later Quantico) and boarded a steamer to Washington.    

Part of that ride was the first rail bridge over the Occoquan just west of where Mason’s ferry had taken passengers over to Colchester.   H.K. Bradshaw of Alexandria built the trestle structure.   Griffin, quoting the Gazette, tells us a “goodly gathering of the citizens of Prince William County and a number of fair ladies” were on hand.     

Newspaper accounts show some activities at Woodbridge in the 1880s.  A horse race track was located at the station.  Baseball games were played and political gatherings held.  W.D. Clarke ran a store.  Republicans, supported by African Americans, gathered in Occoquan, while Democrats (conservative) rallied in Woodbridge. 

The torrents of rain waters returned in 1889 and damaged the bridge.  The Southern Railway rebuilt it in 1892 with a metal Pratt truss. 

The bridge one sees now was completed in 1915 by the RF&P.    Nathaniel Lee tells us more about it in his book, “The Iron Road of Franconia.”   Designed by the famed Gustav Lindenthal in the “Parker through truss” style, the 920-foot span was “the largest single feat of engineering undertaken by the railroad company in Fairfax County.”    Other examples across the country are dwindling in number.    

Lee reminds us such structures are works of public art and that the bridge is on the Fairfax County Inventory of Historic Sites.   It is used by CSXT, Amtrak and VRE and a DC2RVA report points out it is eligible for listing in the NRHP.

Around the time the new bridge was built in 1915, a couple of homes (13221 built in 1913 and 13221 built in 1913) also sprung up near the station on Railroad Avenue.  They joined 13215 (1901), 13209 (1910) and 13217 (1913).    Historic aerials also show a row of structures on the west side of the tracks.   The houses remain but the other structures slowly went away.    

The site of the railroad station is just to the east of the tracks near the VRE station.   As Griffin points out, the station was alternately known as both Woodbridge and Occoquan.   The station to the south at Cherry Hill was Myron and to the north was the Long Branch Station at Newington.

More excitement came to this part of the county in 1927 when the Washington-Richmond highway (Route One) was completed.    Instead of a new bridge being built, the metal bridge built in 1892 for the railroad was converted for vehicle traffic.   Prior to the new highway, motorists used an out of the way course of Old Colchester Road, Furnace Road underneath the railroad tracks to Lorton Road and then to Ox Road where they crossed over the Occoquan at Occoquan.   Another way used Lorton Road.   

In 1941, the Route One highway bridge was widened.   In 1957, a front page story for the Richmond Dispatch told readers about 9 injured in a head-on collision on the bridge. In 1972, Hurricane Agnes damaged some of the bridge.   A temporary bridge was built and became the southbound span in 1981.

Automobiles made captains and conductors of every driver behind the steering wheel.    Passenger numbers on the RF&P declined after World War II.   The company announced plans to dismantle a half dozen stations in 1952, including Woodbridge.   It’s no coincidence that Shirley Highway was completed that same year.     

In the second half of the century, Woodbridge continued to grow as a bedroom community and census designated place.   Visit Prince William notes:  “Woodbridge is probably the most renowned area in Prince William, Virginia.”

A new VRE station and parking garage went up in October 1991.  The Post reported it was expected to be the busiest in the VRE system.   A new overpass over the RR tracks was also built.  Woodbridge was the only station to have a new station house.

An elected official at the ceremony was quoted as saying, “Transportation affects every person who lives in our community.”

Perhaps when Prince William County celebrates and commemorates its 300th birthday in 2031, we will hear something like that again.  Maybe even at this tucked away historic spot.