For our next visit we decided to return to horse and hunt country. The initial inspiration came from Eugene M. Scheel. He is best known as a legendary map maker, but he is also an author and an historian who wrote many articles in The Washington Post. Last fall, we got lucky when we went to the Waterford Fall Festival and bought his five-volume set, “Loudoun Discovered.”
Volume Three is “The Hunt Country and Middleburg.” Having spent a number of Saturdays in that lovely town, let’s instead head north of it and take a look at St. Louis, an historic African American community just three miles away.
It’s a great time to do so, as there has been some terrific research recently. As with Scheel, we owe much to the report, “Loudoun County African American Historic Architecture Resources Survey” (September, 2024). We also learned a lot from The St. Louis Village Plan (Draft Report) and the Piedmont Environmental Council’s article, “Historic Howard Property in St. Louis” by Kristie Kendall.
As far as we know, there is not yet a National Register for Historic Places nomination for St. Louis, but we did find the one for nearby Willisville, whose story parallels St. Louis in some ways. Most wonderfully is the recent work done by Shemika Curvey and Annabelle Spencer ("Spatializing Black Stories: Geographies of Community in Loudoun County, Virginia.")
As we have seen on our visits and in a number of books and articles, horse and hunt country in Loudoun and Fauquier County is a very special place. Its focus is sharpest in Middleburg. But once you break away from that tony town’s pull, you can find a small galaxy of places to its north.
Willisville, a sister village to St. Louis, is steeped with rich stories of African American resilience and community building. Their neighbor Welbourne shines as the historic mansion of the famed Dulany family, whose son Richard founded the Upperville Colt and Horse Show, the oldest in America. Welbourne hosted the opening ceremony for the Great Hound Match of 1905, which put Middleburg and the area on the map. The stories of formerly enslaved at Welbourne give us a deeper understanding of Willisville and the history of the area.
On the east side of our galaxy is Foxcroft School, a beloved institution teaching young women and future leaders since 1914. A hop and a skip up Foxcroft Road lies Huntland, described as “one of the most remarkable hunt country estates."
Just down Pot House Road lies Benton, a mansion hidden in a grove of trees. Formerly known as Spring Hill, it was built (c. 1831) by William Benton who made his own bricks, supervised James Monroe’s Oak Hill, and built the oldest part of Huntland and other homes nearby.
Steps south of St. Louis stands the oval track and facilities of the Middleburg Training Center. Once a stomping ground of Paul Mellon, it is a place that will always remember the day in 1957 when Queen Elizabeth got a first hand look at 18 of the area's finest young thoroughbreds.
A short trot away is Homeland. In her book, “Hunt Country of America,” Kitty Slater said the house with 30-foot columns was “considered Middleburg’s most impressive mansion.” The massive dwelling became the Notre Dame Academy and is now the Cornerstone Christian Academy.
In the middle of this treasure trove lies St. Louis. In its own special ways and considering the challenges it has faced, this community shines bright, too.
(All photos are by the author).
Beginnings
Some villages and communities in colonial times began as a cross roads place. St. Louis, we might say, began as a metaphorical cross road. After the Civil War, some freed blacks and formerly enslaved in Loudoun County sought greener pastures to the north and west. Others stayed and formed communities.
As the Survey report points out, St. Louis became the largest of the self-contained African American communities in the county. Others include the nearby Willisville and Howardsville. The nomination form for Willisville tells us these communities began at the edge of farms or other marginal areas. They consisted of about 20-25 families. Scheel points out none of the black villages had a post office even though many were larger than the white counterparts.
The St. Louis Village Plan points us to 1873 as a beginning point for the community. William H. Hibbs sold property to formerly enslaved people, including members of the Howard family. The research of Curvey and Spencer tells us some of the earliest families to purchase land were the Styles, Berrymans, Howards, and the McQuays.
Kendall’s research gives us great insight into the former Howard family property, ten acres of wooded area on Snake Hill Road and east of the church. Hibbs acquired the land in 1870 and sold it to William Seaton in 1876. Seaton sold it to Winfield Howard in the same year. Howard family members owned it until 2017 when MOJAX LLC bought it and proposed development. The residents successfully fought back.
In 1881, Thomas Glascock sold one-acre lots to those who had been enslaved. Among Glascock’s holdings was nearby Rose Hill. Charles and James McQuay, Reverend Wormley Hughes, and other African Americans became land owners.
By the turn of the century, St. Louis had a population of about 100. Today it has about 200 residents. The percentage of African Americans has dropped, but stalwarts remain as key figures in planning and preservation, and in other aspects of the community.
Origin of the Name
One of the first things Scheel wanted to know about St. Louis was the origin of the name. He spoke with Melvin A. Warren, a former mail carrier, who remembered Phil McQuay. McQuay ran a store in the village. McQuay told Warren one of his family members lived in St. Louis, Missouri and then returned in the 1880s. They nicknamed him “Little St. Louis.”
The first mention of the name St. Louis in a county deed book came in May, 1891. Among those buying lots were Ann Gillison and Charles and James McQuay.
The McQuay Family
McQuay Lane pays tribute to the family. Census data for 1920 shows Charles, 65, was a farmer. Ella was 53. Phil, 24, was a store keeper in the next census. Martha, 24, was a Public School Teacher. Frances was 10 years old. Other family members lived nearby.
Phil McQuay made the front page of the Loudoun News (October 28) in 1948 (“Test of McQuay Case Reveals Zoning Appeals Have No Appeal to Court”). He applied to the zoning board for a permit to open a grocery store, one that would also sell beer. The board members turned it down, citing “it would be detrimental to the best interests of health and welfare.”
McQuay also made the front page of the Blue Ridge Herald on September 18, 1947 ("Nine Abandoned School Buildings Bring Eight Thousand at Auction"). He purchased the St. Louis School for $600.
Now a home, the former McQuay store retains its stepped parapet at 35285 Snake Hill Road, just east of Banneker School and across from the church. The store served the community until the 1960s.
Employment
By 1910, sixty-two percent of black farmers in the county owned their land. Cattle, dairy, and corn were prominent. African Americans in St. Louis and nearby also found some work opportunities at Foxcroft School and the Benton home and farm, and in the horse industry, including equestrian training.
Residents were no doubt proud of the St. Louis Colored Horse Show. Scheel’s map show its site near St. Louis Road and Hamlin School Lane. The grounds were established around 1900 by Charles McQuay and Shirley Smith. The annual show ran to the 1930s and made quite a name for itself.
Among those distinguishing themselves in the saddles was Colonel “Knot” Brooks (1911-1993), a resident of nearby Willisville, who earned acclaim as a horse trainer and jockey. Scheel writes many considered him the top jockey in the US, winning more than 300 flat races and 200 steeplechase. He learned to ride by exercising horses and competing at the St. Louis Colored Horse Show.
The Middleburg Training Track and barns lie just 500 yards south of Banneker Elementary School. In her book, "Middleburg Mystique," Vicky Moon tells us it “is almost a little town to itself.”
After the Great Depression, some black folks in St. Louis worked at the track. Some might have helped with the work in 1955 when Paul Mellon (1907-1999) bought and enlarged the track and complex. A premiere facility, it has 11 barns and a 7/8 mile race track.
During her visit to Washington in October, 1957, Queen Elizabeth paid a visit to the barns. Author Sally Bedell Smith (“Elizabeth the Queen”) tells us she spent nearly an hour looking at a group of select yearlings (horses between one and two years old) and talking to the owners and their trainers. Perhaps some residents of St Louis were able to catch a look at the Queen or even briefly speak to her. Meanwhile, the reporters fumed at having to wait by the entrance at St. Louis Road.
Moon tells us Fred Fox was a fixture at the track. He got his trainer’s license in 1955. Fox went to school at Willisville, but surely knew folks in St. Louis. He started working for Mellon at age 18. Mellon would earn distinguishing honors as a top-notch horse breeder. Fox broke horses and galloped some of them.
Another black horseman was Albert Bland. In his article, “Windows on the Past of Black Middleburg,” The Washington Post writer M.J. McAteer tells us about him. Bland moved to St. Louis in the 1950s. This was around the time Mellon was making his move to develop horses that would help him become one of only five people to earn “Exemplar of Racing” by the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame. Bland was an exercise rider and a jockey. He became the unofficial mayor of St. Louis.
McAteer also writes about Eugene Howard, who lived in St. Louis for all of his 71 years. He attended Banneker and worked for Mellon as a curator of his books and paintings. Howard also served as a leader of the Deacons at the Mt. Zion Baptist Church.
It is also possible one or more residents of St. Louis worked at Homeland, a nearby historic mansion home (built c. 1920) of William and Katherine Hitt. His father was Secretary of State, her father was Senator (West Virginia) Stephen Elkins. In her book, “Hunt Country of America,” Kitty Slater said the house with 30-foot columns was “considered Middleburg’s most impressive mansion.” The massive dwelling became the Notre Dame Academy and is now the Cornerstone Christian Academy.
Curvey and Spencer tell us about the Lee family, who "perfectly exemplifies the history of the community's ownership of successful farmland." Lawrence and Gladys Lee were principals at Banneker Elementary School in the late 1950s and early 1960's. The Lee's ran a successful diary farm called Alta Lee Diary, named after their daughter.
Education
Blacks in Loudoun County fought hard for education rights. For many years students filled a one-room school at what is now a home at 35430 Hamlin School Lane.
The Edwin Washington Project tells some of its story. The St. Louis/Hamlin school was a simple one-room plain wooden structure with a bell tower. It opened in 1877. Among the teachers were Mattie McQuay Berryman and Anna Gaskins. At one point, overcrowding was so bad that Phil McQuay’s store was used. The structure was converted to a private home in the 1950s and is located on Hamlin School Lane.
Scheel tells us John Wesley Wanzer and Dr. Maurice Edmead led the way to build a new school. Both were esteemed figures. As Middleburg Life tells us, Dr. Edmead was Middleburg’s black physician and a community leader.
Wanzer was a successful businessman and provider of leadership to a number of organizations, including the Loudoun Chapter of the NAACP and County-Wide League, which fought for educational equality for African American students.
The proud day came in March, 1948 when Banneker Elementary School opened on the south side of the main road and west of McQuay’s store. It initially served 185 students (Middleburg, St.Louis, and Mountville’s Marble Quarry) in five rooms and stands as a landmark of civil rights progress in the heart of the St Louis community. First year students included Mary and Eugene Howard, Florence Hill, and Adele Robinson.
The Loudoun School Project website adds Banneker “is the only existing African American school in Loudoun County still operating as an elementary school.”
Church
Churches are often windows into the past. Even if their architecture is not striking, there is the knowledge of what they have meant to the community. African American churches are pillars this way. During Jim Crow, they were gathering places in the struggle for civil rights and much more.
The icon in St. Louis is the Mt. Zion Baptist Church. It lies across the street from the former McQuay Store.
Scheel provides information on its beginnings. The congregation first met in homes and the St. Louis School (built c. 1877). Elder Wormley Hughes provided leadership.
The church was organized in 1885. In 1891, church trustees were George Berryman and Robert McQuay Sr. The Howard and McQuay families bought the land. The original church was built by Rev. M.B. Strother in 1893. After that church burned down in 1919, the congregation met at the school. Rev. Thornton Johnson built a new church in 1929. Scheel’s map shows the site of the “Burnt Church,” which is about 1500 feet to the east of the church.
A 2020 article (“Standing with St. Louis…And Now Aldie") by Cindy Sabato with the Piedmont Environmental Council featured Marcus Howard and Sharon Peterson standing in front of the church. Peterson’s grandmother, Mattie McQuay Berryman, once owned 300 acres in St. Louis. Peterson lives in the home her great grandfather built, which dates to 1895.
Entertainment
A beloved annual event near St. Louis is the Upperville Colt and Horse Show. With a beginning in 1863, it was established by Col. Richard Henry Dulany of Oakley, about four miles southwest of St. Louis. The show is the oldest such event in the US.
In the 1910s, skilled black horsemen like Garner Peters started getting attention there. Sadly, a rule was established that forbade black riders in the competition. The nomination form for the Upperville Colt and Horse Show tells us this restriction might have led to the St. Louis community establishing their own show in 1898.
Scheel has the St. Louis Colored Horse Show Grounds labeled on his map. Other sources call it the St Louis Colt Show. It ran until the 1930s.
Residential
The Center for Mason Legacies report tells us the Vernacular I-house form with a two-story, side gable, single pile was common in rural Virginia and was used in St. Louis. Typically, a single room is on either side of a central hall. 22326 St. Louis Road is an example and includes an original rear ell and was built in 1900.
Other notable homes are:
The Basil House (photo) at 22317 St. Louis Road (built 1930) stands out with a one and a half story side-gabled dwelling with lap siding and a shed-roof front porch.
35430 Hamlin School Lane was adapted from the St Louis School, built c. 1900.
The Madison House, built 1870 at 22240 St Louis Road, is considered a "true one and a half house."
The Future
The community of St. Louis remains vibrant, but it stands at yet another crossroads. As Jacob Connelly ("Northern Virginia Archive of Black Community Resistance") points out, residents continue to face the pressures of expansion, rising land prices, environmental racism, and infrastructural neglect.
Anyone taking a stand for the community of St. Louis does so at a place that has a history of doing so. It is indeed a shining star in that galaxy just north of Middleburg...
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