Jaybird's Jottings

Top Twelve Buildings and Homes in Alexandria

With this tenth stop, we are headed into the home stretch with our look at a dozen distinctive and distinguished homes and buildings in Old Town.  

 

Lee Hall

806 Prince Street

The R.E. Lee Camp Hall is located in one of the more distinctive houses in Old Town.  Oddly, however, there are no markers or signs to indicate what’s inside.  Every once in a while, passer bys will see two flags flying, to signal their open house.

Previously known as “Confederate Hall,” this Greek Revival house with a wrought iron front porch was built in 1852 as the home of Rev. James T. "Parson" Johnston, rector of St. Paul's Episcopal Church.   

When I took in a tour last year, the docents were very friendly and helpful.    The genteel lady who guided me on the first floor was a descendant of one of the members of the 17^th Virginia Infantry Regiment.    Many of the boys who marched down Prince to Manassas never returned home to Alexandria.

Dr. Johnston wanted a retirement home that reminded him of his beloved Savannah.    Like many large houses in Alexandria, it became a hospital during the war.    After the turn of the Century, the Civil War veterans on the Confederate side needed a gathering place and chose this house.  The Lee Camp of United Confederate Veterans was established in1884.    For many years, the sign outside said “Confederate Hall.”  

Today the Mary Custis Lee-17th Virginia Regiment Chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy owns the House and operates the R.E. Lee Camp Hall museum there.   The three-story house has several single tenants.

 Walking into the parlor, one sees large paintings of Lee, Stonewall Jackson and other Confederate officers.   Upstairs is the museum with Civil War artifacts such as uniforms, flags, canteens, hats, emblems, a Bible taken from a “Yankee knapsack” and photographs.

As noted, no photography is allowed, but I happened upon Eric Spiegel of Old Town Alexandria Patch, who was given permission.  His photo essay is at their website.

 

Finding Francis Scott Key: Baltimore, Part Two

Today we are going to finish up our Key connections to Baltimore.   Well, let me say not so much finishing up as surrendering.   Baltimore, you can be proud of your tributes to Key, so many, you kicked my butt!

By way of reviewing, so far we have looked at Frederick, Georgetown, Alexandria, Bladensburg, and Fort McHenry.   Remaining on the slate are D.C., Annapolis and Terra Rubra.

 

Francis Scott Key was born in Terra Rubra, graduated from college in Annapolis, earned a living in Washington, gave time and talents to Alexandria, and was laid to rest in Frederick.   ‘Tis the hearts in Baltimore, however, that have fluttered the strongest for the author of our national anthem.   Valentines for Key are aplenty in Charm City, so many, in fact, I seriously doubt the list I have compiled is a complete one.

 

Battle Monument

Battle Monument Park

Calvert Street

Eshelman notes this is the first substantial war memorial built in the Unites States.   No time was wasted, as the cornerstone was set one year after the Battle of Baltimore.   Some of the leaders such as Major General Samuel Smith, Brigadier General John Stricker and Lt. Colonel George Armstead helped with the ceremonious laying.   In subsequent years, “Defenders Day” ceremonies took place here.

The Maryland Historic Society notes the significance of the monument.

Battle Monument is second only to the Washington Monument as the finest early monument in Baltimore and one of the reasons Baltimore was called "the Monumental City." It is significant for its Egyptian Revival architectural design and as a democratic monument displaying all the names of those who died in the Battle of Baltimore, regardless of rank. It was designed by Maximilian Godefroy, an important early architect in Baltimore. The sculptor of the statue was Antonio Capellano, the artist of the bas reliefs of Christ and Moses on St. Paul’s P.E. Church. The monument is rich in symbolism..

 

Maryland Historic Society

W. Monument St

Founded in 1844, this organization is Maryland’s oldest continuos operating cultural institution.  Right now their Civil War exhibits are front and center but this is a must stop for Keyphiles.   Paintings, prints, artifacts, and the holy grail, the original manuscript.

 

Key Monument

Corner of Eutaw Place and Lanvale Street

Key’s great granddaughter, Mrs. William Gilmore, unveiled this 30-foot bronze and granite monument in 1911.  Funded by Charles L. Marburg and sculpted by Jean M.A. Mercie of France, Myer notes it is not nearly as well known as others.   The monument was re-dedicated in 1999, after being restored.

 The Historical Marker Database site writes the following:

On one side, ships are depicted bombarding Fort McHenry. On the other, the view is from Fort McHenry out onto the ships in Baltimore harbor.

 

Place of Passing

Northwest corner of East Mt. Vernon Place and North Charles Street, on the side of Mount Vernon United Methodist Church.

Key spent his final years alternating between light work in Washington and visits to Terra Rubra.    On January 7, 1843, he visited his daughter Lizzie in Baltimore.     A few days later he caught a sore throat and fever, and was diagnosed with pneumonia.   On January 11^th, he fell asleep and passed away around 8 pm.

A trip to this marker can be combined with a visit to the Maryland Historical Society.    The inscription, prepared by the Baltimore Chapter, Daughters of American Revolution, reads:

 

Author of The Star Spangled Banner departed this life on the site of this building Jan. 11, 1843.

 

Indian Queen Tavern Site

Baltimore Street

It’s not certain if this site is where Key went to after he landed in Baltimore.  No marker that I’m aware of.

 

Key Bridge

Coming up on its 35^th birthday, this long span is used for I-695 on the east side of Baltimore. 

When I visited Fort McHenry, I could see it in the distance, but visibility was poor due to the cloudy day.

A buoy marks the place where historians made a best guess as to where the boat was located with Key on board.

As this article notes, a Coast Guard cutter placed the buoy during a ceremony in 2008.   The buoy, painted as the American Flag, is set in the spring and removed in the fall.

 

Orpheus Statue

When Bill and I visited Fort McHenry, we saw this statue but didn’t stop due to the rain.

The HMDB site has the wording of the interpretive marker.

The heroic bronze figure in front of you is not, as many suppose, a likeness of Francis Scott Key. The statue represents Orpheus, the artful poet, musician, and singer of Greek Mythology.

In 1914 Congress appropriated funds for a monument at Fort McHenry to mark the centennial of the writing of “The Star-Spangled Banner” and the defense of Baltimore. Orpheus with the Awkward Foot, the creation of sculptor Charles H. Niehaus, was selected from thirty four designs submitted in a national competition.

Orpheus is depicted playing a lyre, and stands twenty-four feet from head to toe. The marble base bears a medallion honoring Francis Scott Key, flanked by a procession of allegorical figures. The pedestal contains a time capsule filled with documents of patriotic and historical interest. In 1962 the statue was moved here from its original site near the fort's principal entrance.

 

 

Nando's Coming to Old Town

Spicy chicken lovers get ready.  Nando’s is coming to Old Town Alexandria.   The South-African based chain is moving into the 704 King Street spot previously occupied by Popeye’s.

Now, we realize replacing a chicken chain with another chicken chain doesn’t seem impressive, but Nando’s is one of the hottest brands worldwide with 900 stores in 24 countries.    In 2008, this casual-dining restaurant landed in the U.S. with a couple of locales in D.C.  They now have seven total, with others in Silver Spring, Gaithersburg, Bethesda and National Harbor. 

Alexandria will be there first entry in Northern Virginia.  

Having never been to one of their restaurants, I hopped over to National Harbor yesterday to get my first taste. Their flamed-grilled “Peri-Peri” has five options -  plain (mildly spicy), lemon and herb, medium, hot and extra hot.   The Portuguese sauce is said to be very healthy.

Enjoyed mine as medium spice, and my side, some really good garlic bread.   

Talked with the manager, who said they plan to expand more in the region and nationwide.   

As I was walking King Street, I started thinking about what is the best single block restaurant-wise in the historic district, or in the city for that matter.    The 700 block of King will have 10 spots total, including Eamonn’s Dubliner Chipper, Pita House, Le Pain Quotidian, the new House of Kabob which recently replaced Sand Veg, and in a few months, Nando’s.   

Note:  From what I understand, they're going to gut the place, so adjust the ETA accordingly.    

 

 

Virginia Senate Race Comes to Huntington

Almost 150 years ago, President Lincoln spoke at Fort Lyon, just a few steps from what we know today as the Huntington Metro in the Fairfax County portion of Alexandria.   This afternoon, in nearly the same spot, Tim Kaine, governor of Virginia from 2006 to 2010, also spoke before an assembled crowd. 

Kaine is the presumptive Democratic nominee for the U.S. Senate seat being vacated by Senator Jim Webb, who announced he will retire at the end of his first term.  The event, held at 5914 N. Kings Highway, opened the Virginia Democrats’ Coordinated Campaign Headquarters.

A crowd of about 300 welcomed Kaine, who was celebrating his 54^th birthday.    Drawing distinctions between himself and his likely opponent, George Allen, Kaine spoke for about 20 minutes.   He accented the diversity among Democrats in the state, and criticized Allen and Republicans for policies that divide.

A small space in a strip mall must have seemed an odd choice, but as a campaign spokesperson explained, the close proximity of Metro was a major factor.   Kaine supports public transportation. 

Virginia will hold both primaries on June 12th. 

The presumed race between Kaine and Allen, deadlocked in recent polls, is heating up.   Today’s Washington Examiner splashed the headline – “Social Issues Stir Up Virginia Senate Race.”

 

 

Ferry Farm: Washington’s Boyhood Home

Mount Vernon and Alexandria are synonymous with the Father of our Country.  Lesser known in these parts is Washington’s childhood home at Ferry Farm, just east of Fredericksburg.   In 1738, the family moved there when Washington was 6 years old.    His mother stayed until 1772, while Washington went to live at Mount Vernon in 1754.   

In a program titled, “Lincoln’s War at Washington’s Boyhood Home,” Paul Nasca lectured yesterday morning at the free “Java Jolt” series held at the Alexandria Archaeology Museum in Old Town.   Nasca supervised the large-scale excavation on the site.    

Culminating years of work, the team announced their findings in the summer of 2008.    With scant writings on Washington’s early years, the artifacts they found filled in some of the missing details.   Previous historians thought the house was simply a rustic cottage.    The new evidence shows an eight-room, clapboard house with two stone fireplaces, cellars and one and a half stories.   

Using primary sources, images, diaries and the archaeological finds, Nasca provided a unique look at this site overlooking the Rappahannock River.  He spoke of the nightmare scenario in this type of work.  The first two digs were false leads.   Another obstacle was plowing, which had mixed in artifacts from the Union Army, who occupied the site during the Civil War in 1862 and 1863.   

When his father Augustine died in 1743, Washington inherited the home and property.   Two years after his mother moved to Fredericksburg, Washington sold the home and property in 1774 to Dr. Hugh Mercer.    The house fell to ruins sometime in the early 19^th Century.    In 1846, Winter Bray purchased the property and built a house there.

In 1862, the Union army set up their camp on the farm.   They had the same look into Fredericksburg that Washington had when he was an impressionable lad, and would watch the port town’s activities.   

The soldiers surely took some level of inspiration from the knowledge that the heroic Washington spent some of his growing years there, and owned the land.   But the chasm between what took place, and what others had said took place, was as wide as the Rappahannock that streamed past the farm.   

As prove, Nasca showed us diaries and reports that indicated the soldiers thought the Bray house was Washington’s childhood home.   Like everyone else at the time, the Union troops also believed what they had read in Parson Weems’s 1800 biography of Washington.    Right there on the farm, the myth-making author said, the young future President had chopped down a cherry tree, and then confessed to his father.   And like some heroic warrior, he had thrown a silver dollar clear across the Rappahannock.

In front of a knowledgeable audience that filled the museum’s exhibit space, Brasca wove several threads in his hour plus presentation.    In addition to the Civil War connection, and President Lincoln’s visit to the troops at the farm in the summer of 1862, we learned about the “contrabands” who had made their way to Fredericksburg on their way to north to Washington and beyond.   One of the photos he showed us was a black lady and two children who had crossed the bridge and stood at the foot of the farm.   Her name and story is lost to the ages, but it’s a good guess she and her family were three souls on that long journey to freedom.

Brasca concluded his presentation with a list of names of some of the contraband.   Historical documentation like this does not come easy.    Archaeologists and historians sift and sift for years to bring us these amazing stories.   Thanks to their hard work, we’ve come a great distance since the days when future Presidents walked on Ferry Farm.

Note:

More info including a rendering of the home can be found at the George Washington Foundation website. 

 

 

 

 

It’s Not Nice to Fool (With) Mother Nature

When it comes to the cherry trees in DC, no predictions are official until the NPS rolls out their crystal ball on March 1.

But in this report by ABC News 7, a local expert says if the milder temps continue, the blooming could be one to two weeks ahead of schedule.  

At least it should be warm this year, and important to remember is:

"The Peak Bloom Date is defined as the day on which 70 percent of the blossoms of the Yoshino cherry trees that surround the Tidal Basin are open.   The Blooming Period is defined as that period when 20 percent of the blossoms are open until the petals fall and leaves appear.  The blooming period starts several days before the peak bloom date and can last as long as 14 days, however, frost or high temperatures combined with wind or rain can shorten this period."

 

 

 

 

Finding Francis Scott Key: The Song

I came across two more books relating to Key.    They both shed light on a part of the story we have not covered – the song.

The first book is, “The Flag, The Poet & The Song” by Irvin Molotsky, published in 2001.    The challenge for any author covering the subject is trying to find a path not already beaten.   Molotsky succeeds.    In the first chapter he warms up by chiding some of the improvisations of the Star-Spangled Banner.

“…the O is shouted by everyone in the park.  Get it?  Very funny in Baltimore.  Scared the hell out of me the first time I heard it.”

The author then introduces Paul Zimmerman, a Sports Illustrated writer who gained some measure of fame by clocking the anthem with his stopwatch.   When Molotsky interviewed him, Zimmerman said he had timed the singing of the Star-Spangled Banner 1,283 times at sporting events.

It’s not hard to find people who agree our National Anthem is not easy to sing, but few are willing to criticize it further.   Motolsky found his man.  Zimmerman said, “It’s a crummy song and I want to get it over with as soon as possible.”

The author also casts a critical eye on the National Baseball Hall of Fame, who references, “The Cultural Encyclopedia of Baseball” as saying the first time the anthem was played at a baseball game was May 15, 1862.    

“Dubious,” Motolsky says.   “The first well-documented performance of the Star-Spangled Banner at a baseball game came to Comisky Park during the 1918 World Series between the Cubs and the Red Sox.”

The other book is, “The Star-Spangled Banner: The Making of an American Icon” by Lonn Taylor.    Standing out as a large, thick book, I spotted it at the NMAH last week.   A few days later I checked it out of the library,  but it’s only a third of the size.   An excellent source, however, with a chapter on the song having the insight I needed.

We’ll probably never know for sure if Key wrote his poem with the tune, “Anacreon in Heaven,” in mind, but as the book notes, ‘historians believe that Key probably had the melody in mind.”  

 The song has been maligned as a British drinking song, but the book says that’s a misnomer.   

By the way, Anthem, a new film is coming out this summer.    This website has more info.

The Star Spangled Banner slowly grew in popularity, with much of it coming after Key passed away in 1843.   As one might expect, Union soldiers juxtaposed patriotism with the playing of the song by bands.  

In 1903, the Navy required all of its sailors to stand at attention during the playing.    Full iconic status, however, was still years away.  Finally, after several false starts, Congress designated the Star Spangled Banner as the national anthem in 1936.

If I could add one personal memory.   When I was in the sixth grade at Sedgefield Elementary in Greensboro, our teacher, Mrs. Boggs, let us watch the World Series, or some of it.  If I recall correctly, this was 1967.

Anyway, normal protocol is that if are inside, you don't have to stand up when the National Anthem comes on.   Well, Mrs. Boggs, patriotic soul and stickler for discipline, told us to stand up and sing it.  

Stand and sing we did!

 

 

 

 

Top Twelve Buildings and Homes in Alexandria: Lloyd House

This is the ninth stop on our tour of distinctive and distinguished homes and buildings in Old Town.   The list of occupants for the Lloyd House is rather lengthy, so bear with us on the not-so-in-depth coverage of each one.

I do want to thank Amy Bertsch of the Office of Historic Alexandria, who provided insights, and for all the work she does to preserve and promote Alexandria’s rich history.

For photos of inside the Lloyd House and a much better primer on its history, see her article at Alexandria.gov.

 

Lloyd House

220 N. Washington

SW Corner of N. Washington and Queen

About fifty years after the founding of Alexandria in 1749, a handsome brick dwelling, designed in the Georgian style, rose up on the west side of town.   The nomination form from the National Park Service notes it “was one of the finest examples of Federal domestic architecture in Alexandria and a splendid example of the post-colonial style.”

If you will pardon the expression, the story of this historic home is “much more than Lloyd.”   Although he lived there the longest period of time, a handful of other prominent citizens also called it home, including John Wise, Benjamin Hallowell, Jacob Hoffman, and Charles Lee.

The history behind Alexandria’s prominent homes and buildings is not always fully researched.  In this case, we are most fortunate to have the work of Timothy Denee, who penned two pieces on the Lloyd House in the “Historic Alexandria Quarterly” newsletter.   The following is a summary of his findings.

John Wise owned the City Hotel (Gadsby’s Tavern).  Known as the “Tavern King,” he kept Alexandrians in good spirits and retired a wealthy man.   It is believed he built this house around 1797.

Around this time, few dwellings existed west of Washington Street.   Wise first leased it (1798 to 1800) to Charles Lee, uncle of Robert E. Lee and younger brother of Henry “Light-Horse.”   Lee served in both the Washington and Adams administrations, as well as being a Federal Judge.

Economic fluctuations led to a variety of owners and renters.   In 1810, Jacob Hoffman bought the house and built one of the largest and most profitable sugar refineries in the area.

After James Hewitt Hooe, a close relative of Colonel Robert Townshend Hooe moved out, the renowned Quaker educator Benjamin Hallowell opened a school in the house.   One of his students was Robert E. Lee, who only had a two-block walk from the family house on Oronoco.  

In 1833, John Lloyd, whose parents died when he was a young child, bought the house.  The Donald Trump of his day, he also owned a row of five townhomes on S. Washington, as well as other properties and a 1,300-acre farm.   His wife, Anna Harriotte Lee, a force in her own right, was a first cousin of Robert E. Lee.    Lloyd passed away in 1860, but the family lived here until 1918.

William A. Smoot, Jr., Mayor of the city, became the next owner.   He entertained President Hoover here in 1928.

During World War II, one can guess the lights went out early at night, as the house became a barracks for the “WAVES,” – Navy Women’s Reserves who worked at the Navy Torpedo Station on Union.  After the war, stewardesses from Capital Airlines slept her, as well as military and government workers.

In the 1950s, urban redevelopers eyeballed the historic two and a half-story house.   Intervention by Wyoming geologist Robert Valentine, and the Historic Alexandria Foundation raised funds to purchase the contract, allowing New to renovate for use as offices.

In 1966, the Alexandria Historical Restoration and Preservation Commission lent their power and resources to purchase the building.    Once restored, the corner spot was used as a home for the Alexandria Library’s Historical Collection.   In 1990, they moved over to the Barrett Branch on Queen Street.  

After another restoration in 2003, the house rolled out the carpet for a most welcomed new tenant - the Office of Historic Alexandria.   It's perfect marriage of the past and the present.

 

 

Day Tripping: Warrenton

With sprawl spreading out in all directions, the great escape from Washington takes longer with each passing year.  Still, prizes await those willing to hit the road.

For the better half and me, we enjoy day trips to a town that preserves its local character and historic resources.    A good restaurant, unique shops, shady walks and a museum or two are a must.    In our quest for such bliss, we’ve been pleased with places like Frederick, Chestertown, Front Royal, and Middletown, among others.

Spurred on by the mild weather yesterday, we can now add Warrenton to our list.   Due to its smaller size, it doesn’t crack our Top Five, but definitely ca vaut le pliene.    

Unforgettable is “Claire’s at the Depot.”   Located three blocks from Main Street in an old train station, Claire Lambourne’s award-winning restaurant dazzles both the palate and the eye.   The owner spent $500,000 on the rehab and addition.   Caboose in the back marks the starting point for a greenway walk.

I had the fried oysters in cornmeal.    Took me back to Supply, NC, my Dad’s hometown, where they used to host oyster festivals.   Melts in your mouth.  Can’t eat just two.

Service impeccable, and prices reasonable.    Better half had the quiche, thick, moist and tasty.

Another little jewel in this historic district and the Fauquier County seat is the “Jail Museum.”  The old jail is creepy, but the main part of the museum is wonderfully done.    

I mean, where else can you learn about an “aebleskiver?” (pan used to make sweet, round Danish pancake balls)

If that experience leaves you wanting fresh baked goods, head down Main Street to the “Great Harvest Bread Company.”   Maybe you’ll get lucky like we did, and will be given a generous portion of a warm freebie.    The raspberry cobbler bread will make your taste buds swirl.

 

 

Like I said, Warrenton’s historic district is small, but the Courthouse area is chock full of commemorative markers and historic items.     The bronze soldiers piece is a unique tribute to the Gulf War veterans.    Fans of the “Grey Ghost,” John Mosby, will enjoy the tributes to him.

We took the scenic route to Warrenton, using I-95, Highway 234, 28, Vint Hill Road and 29.  

That way is a bit slower than I-66 and 29, but when you're day tripping, slow is good.

 

 

Presidents and African Americans in the White House

What two Presidents have done the most for African-Americans?   Why does the White House still employ an all-black serving staff?  What is President Obama like during an interview?

Kenneth T. Walsh, a prize-winning journalist who has covered the White House since 1986, answered these questions and more last night at the Beatley Library in Alexandria.  He spoke in support of his latest book, “Family of Freedom: Presidents and African Americans in the White House.”

Affable and poised, Walsh presented over two-dozen photographs.    Some showed the progress made in terms of equality, others reminded of the struggles along the way.   After penning the best-selling Up From Slavery, Booker T. Washington received an invitation to dine with President Roosevelt.    Reaction from certain Senators included words we cannot re-print here.

The first Presidents, Walsh reminded, employed slaves in the White House, and thus, their legacies will always be questioned.  After Lincoln, Andrew Johnson set back progress.   President Clinton connected to African-Americans in meaningful, heartfelt ways. President Bush appointing General Colin Powell as Chairmen of the Joint Chiefs of Staff was a milestone.

Lincoln helped African-Americans the most.   LBJ was the second President to go against the tide and fight for Civil Rights.   Fearing a backlash from voters, many Presidents did not take up any specific cause.   Others took a “lift all boats” approach.

Drawing on his 16 years on the beat, Walsh provided insight into life at 1600 Pennsylvania.    Dining one evening, Powell decried the fact that all the servers were black.  The General fired off a memo stating his desire to change the long-held practice.   Unanimously, the staff replied by saying, hands off our jobs - we like working in the White House.

The author also talked about his interview with President Obama for his book.   The President got down to business by saying, "I've been briefed."  Walsh contrasted this with previous Presidents who chit-chatted to break the ice.   On the other hand, Obama put together  his words and thoughts better than any of the others.

 I enjoyed the author’s presentation.   The stereotype for journalists revolves around big egos.   Walsh is down to earth and gave a very insightful lecture.    President Obama’s election heralded in a new chapter for our country, but it took many, difficult other ones to get there.   The White House always sharpens the focus.