“Duty was for Washington never a choice. It was the ingredient of his being.” — “The First Inauguration: George Washington and the Invention of the Republic.”
“About ten o’clock I bade adieu to Mount Vernon, to private life, and to domestic felicity; and with a mind oppressed with more anxious and painful sensations than I have words to express.” - George Washington, Diary, April 16, 1789
I’m a brick building in Old Town Alexandria, located at a corner with Cameron Street, just a few steps from City Hall, a former tavern that gained in popularity in the late eighteenth century, a place George Washington stepped inside more than once.
Gadsby’s Tavern, right?
Most definitely.
But did you know that the former Wise’s Tavern at the corner of N. Fairfax and Cameron also fits the bill?
This thought popped into my mind the other day after I started reading “The First Inauguration: George Washington and the Invention of the Republic.” The author of the 2020 book is Stephen Howard Browne. He is a Professor Emeritus at Penn State University and a scholar in the field of rhetorical studies and public memory. Browne devotes six pages to Washington’s stop at Wise’s Tavern, the first of several on his way to New York as the newly elected President.
Alexandrians have known the basics of the story of Washington and the teary-eyed moments there.
A marker affixed to the building tells the reader:
“Here, on April 16, 1789, George Washington was for the first time publicly addressed as President of the United States the first and greatest of many distinguished successors in that high and honorable office. This tablet was erected in commemoration of this occurrence on April 16, 1932 in the bicentennial year of his birth by the Washington Society of America.”
Smith and Miller ("A Seaport Saga") provide a summary. A group of Alexandrians feted their beloved neighbor that afternoon. After 13 toasts were given, Mayor Dennis Ramsay read an address written by Colonel "Light Horse Harry" Lee.
Reverend William McWhir, who ran the Alexandria Academy on S. Washington Street, recalled “a breathless silence fell upon the overflow crowd.” Washington stood and said, “My kind friends and good neighbors, I bid you an affectionate farewell.”
Browne adds a greater understanding of the event as well the larger context. Let’s take a look using his book and a few other sources.
Mount Vernon to Alexandria
Washington, along with Charles Thomson (1729-1824) and David Humphreys (1752-1818), left Mount Vernon around 10 am on the 16th. On their 200 plus miles journey, they made stops in Alexandria, Georgetown, Baltimore, Wilmington, Chester PA, Philadelphia, Elizabeth Town, and Trenton.
Browne writes:
“The trip would be punctuated by a series of remarkable performances, orchestrated rituals of affirmation. Along the way, but hardly by chance, Washington catalyzed a kind of chain reaction, where many Americans, so different, so raw, could be reconstituted as one people all turned in the right direction.”
Alexandria was just a short horse ride from Mount Vernon. Having gone to the seaport and points beyond many times, Washington knew the path like the back of his hand. Part of the modern day equivalent is Route One, N. King’s Highway, and Telegraph Road.
Alexandria was a town Washington knew quite well. He assisted John West in the first survey, drilled soldiers at Market Square, rode off to war, attended meetings, served as town trustee, conducted business, visited friends, owned a town house, took in plays, worshipped at churches, danced at balls, picked up mail, watched ships launch, contributed to building constructions, and, in the end, was mourned by many.
The familiar surroundings in Alexandria surely comforted him as he rode in to town, but Washington felt the weight of uncertainty of what lay ahead as the newly elected President. Before he left Mount Vernon, he wrote in his diary:
“About ten o’clock I bade adieu to Mount Vernon, to private life, and to domestic felicity; and with a mind oppressed with more anxious and painful sensations than I have words to express.”
Washington was accompanied by two men. Hailing from Connecticut, the multi-talented Humphreys had earned Washington’s respect. As Mount Vernon points out, “An eyewitness to many of the eighteenth century’s major events, his life had taken him from New England to the courts of Europe.” A graduate of Yale and AmRev War vet, Humphreys had spent 18 months at Mount Vernon and wrote a biography of Washington, the only one approved by Washington and published in his life time.
Charles Thomson (1729-1824) had the distinct honor of notifying the President. Thomson certainly knew the way to New York, as he had traveled from there to Mount Vernon to give Washington the official news.
Thomson also had a distinguished career. Called “the Samuel Adams of Philadelphia,” he served as Secretary of the Continental Congress and prepared its Journals. Thomson also designed the Great Seal of the US.
Currently home to a handful of small businesses, the tall painted-white brick building stands in the middle of a part of Old Town that has some of the oldest homes in the city. This includes the historic John Carlyle’s grand manor (1753) and John Dalton’s home on N. Fairfax. As founders, trustees, merchants, and more, both Carlyle and Dalton loom large in the early history of the city.
The full details of the construction of the building are not known. “A Seaport Saga” points out the building dates to c. 1777 and is one of the city’s oldest structures.
An article in The Washington Post (“Home for Aged Ready,” July 1916), reported on work that converted what had been apartments to the Anne Lee Memorial Home for the Aged. It had about 30 rooms and operated until 1974.
The building then became home to small offices. Later on, one of them was Craig Keith Design. I hold fond memories of spending time with this late, great gentleman, who helped me lay out my two self-published books. Walking inside, I always enjoyed seeing two framed portraits of Washington. I also let my mind wander and imagine what it was like on that day in 1789, a small step at the dawn of our democracy.
Tavern History in Alexandria
Although there are only these two survivors in the city, tavern history is rich in Alexandria. In his article (“Major Andrew Ellicott and His Historic Border Lines”), William Buckner McGroarty points out in its early glory days, Alexandria was known for its large number of taverns.
Smith and Miller devote a chapter to them and tell us there were about fifty by 1800. They included the Lomax, Indian Queen, McKnights, Washington’s Tavern, Ship’s Tavern, the Red Lion, Rainbow Inn, and Union Tavern. Their uses were many, including food, drink, lodging, stagecoach arrival and departure point, meeting place, civic gathering, social and political needs, musical entertainment, balls, coffeehouses, newspapers, and mail.
Washington went to Wise’s Tavern a handful of times. Founders Online shows him likely dining there as early as June 19, 1784. He also dined there on September 26, 1785 when it was ran by a Mr. Lyle. Wise ran the tavern from January 1788 to December 1792. He named it A Bunch of Grapes.
Smith and Miller add that John Marshall (1755-1835), future Chief Justice of the Supreme Court (1801-1835) dined here at a dinner in his honor in September 1798.
McGroarty tells us the Alexandria Lodge of Masons met at the tavern on occasion, with Washington and George Mason among the attendees. Madison (“Walking with Washington”) adds to our knowledge, telling us Washington attended two balls there in 1792 and 1794, and dined there during a celebration of the ratification of the US Constitution in 1788. He also stepped inside on July 4, 1799 as part of a review of troops.
Major Andrew Ellicott at the Tavern
George Washington knew a little something about surveying, but in 1790 he handed the task of laying out the border of the diamond-shaped Federal district to Major Andrew Ellicott. He directed Ellicott to include Alexandria in it.
McGroarty writes that in February, 1791, Ellicott (1754–1820), mathematician, surveyor and a close friend of Washington, took up residence at Wise’s Tavern. Ellicott would later train Meriwether Lewis (1774-1809) in his preparation for the Lewis and Clark Expedition to the Pacific Northwest.
Ellicott, assisted by the African American and self-taught astronomer Benjamin Banneker, began the survey at Jones Point, the southern tip of the seaport. Ellicott wrote his wife saying, “I have been treated with the greatest politeness by the inhabitants, who are truly rejoiced at the prospect of being included in the Federal District.”
On April 15, 1791, the tavern hosted Ellicott, District Commissioners Daniel Carroll and Dr. David Stuart, and others who toasted the first cornerstone for the new Federal district. The party included the Mayor, Rev. James Muir, and members of the Lodge No. 22. Along with the Town Sergeant, they and some citizens then walked to Jones Point and ceremoniously laid the first of what would 40 boundary stones. Afterwards they returned to the tavern for more toasting.
Note: In his article, “Benjamin Banneker at the Survey of the District of Columbia, 1791,” Silvio A. Bedini writes that Banneker’s presence at the ceremony was not noted in press accounts, but “there can be little doubt that he was in attendance as a spectator.”
Anniversaries
There were a number of anniversaries of the first inauguration. Browne covers the national ones in the chapter titled, “The First Inauguration in American Memory.”
1839
The first (50th Anniversary) came in New York in 1839, the “first such celebration of Washington’s inauguration.” John Quincy Adams spoke before a large gathering.
1889
The second, the Centennial in 1889, was the grandest of them all.
The New York Sun splashed the headline - "The Centenary Spectacles Move Grandly On, Eleven Miles of Soldiery, Never A Muster Like This Before, Each Governor Leading the Troops of His State."
The article said:
Broadway and Fifth Avenue were jammed by sightseers yesterday as no New York streets ever were crowd before.
For that edition, pages 1, 2, 3 and most of 4 were entirely devoted to the story.
In a span of three glorious days, more than a million people filled southern Manhattan, including President Harrison, former Presidents Cleveland and Hayes. Tens of thousands marched in float-filled parades down Broadway, “the greatest military display since the return of the troops to Washington, the greatest ever made in time of peace in America.”
Visitors at the site of Federal Hall on Wall Street admired a thirteen and a half feet statue of Washington. It was unveiled in 1883, but Browne tells us it was designed specifically for the 100th anniversary of the inauguration.
Browne’s scholarly analysis of these events is a great strength of his book. “Every age is at once lapsing and emerging,” he writes.
He also points out the ritual activities and pride in the past helped “ease the strain of political strive and accent common values, if just for that one long weekend.”
1939
The 150th anniversary came in 1939. This was the dawn of some tough times for the country. Browne writes:
“At this moment as in no other, its people needed a ritualized affirmation of their collective ethos, of who they were and might become. To these ends, the celebration of Washington’s inaugural address could serve no better, no higher purpose.”
Part of the events was a re-enactment of Washington’s journey to New York. On April 14, FDR went to Mount Vernon to see them off and give remarks. This led to speculation. An article in The Washington Post was titled: "Roosevelt Hint at Third Term Seen in Mt. Vernon Speech."
In part of his address, the President said:
"the dangers that beset the young Nation were as real as though the very independence Washington had won for it had been threatened once more by foreign foes.”
There was also a re-creation. On April 16, four white horses and a restored Van Rensselaer coach pulled away from Mount Vernon for the 233-mile journey. The DAR sponsored the event. After a short visit to the former Wise’s Tavern, the group went to Gadsby’s. As done in 1789, 13 toasts were given. Mayor Richard Ruffner read Ramsay’s speech.
The next day, the recreation arrived at the District Building in Washington in an “authentic eighteenth century carriage.” A party that included Commissioner Hazen, American Legion Guard of Honor, and Ladies of the Grand Army of the Republic greeted them. Denys Wortman portrayed Washington.
The Washington Post pointed out some were disappointed that the recreation included visiting Washington, as George Washington had gone from Alexandria to Georgetown.
Like in 1889, New York hosted events across three days with large turnouts. On April 30, FDR ceremoniously lifted the lid on the World’s Fair.
1989
Browne also covers the 200th in 1989. President George Herbert Walker Bush was inaugurated on January 20, 1989. He is quoted as saying, “I’ve just repeated word for word the oath taken by George Washington 200 years ago,” and that he used the same bible. Browne points Washington would have been pleasantly surprised to learn that, after all, the republic for which he stood remained pretty much intact.
Other Events
An article in The Washington Post article reported the Washington Society of Alexandria unveiled the marker at the former Wise's Tavern building on Saturday, April 16, 1932. A short pageant depicting the welcoming of Washington was part of the ceremonies. Miss Katherine Meredith Reese, a great-great-great-granddaughter of Colonel Dennis Ramsay had the honor of unveiling.
Attending were E.W. Schreiner, John B. Gordon, representing the Mayor, D. Mauchlin Nivin, portraying Washington, Miss Nancy James Washington, collateral descendant of Washington, and Ashton Powell, descendant of Col Charles Simm, pall bearer at Washington’s funeral.
Also participating were members of the Mount Vernon Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, and the Colonial Dames of Alexandria. William B. McGroarty delivered an address. Gordon delivered the address made by Ramsay. Nivin spoke the same words as Washington.
William L. Norford represented Charles Thomson. Robert G. Whitton represented Humphries. Ashton Powell represented the bugler who announced Washington’s arrival.
In his article, Charles M. Shepperson noted that the events of April 16, 1789 were one of the most momentous occasions in the history of Alexandria, but that little had been written about it. He gave a brief history of the tavern, pointing out that John Dalton had built it.
Dalton built and lived next door, a house still standing. His will of March 9, 1777 revealed the building still under construction. His two heirs were Jenny, who became Mrs. Thomas Herbert, and Catherine, who became the grandmother of Miss Ann Pamela Cunningham. Wise succeeded George H. Leigh, first tavern keeper.
Conclusion
Browne’s book includes 13 illustrations, a real plus.
In the end he asks, "Had Americans grown tired of it all?"
For Alexandria, we bet its citizens will always have fond feelings of that first stop of Washington’s journey as President of the United States.
And planners, take note. April 16, 2039 is a Saturday…
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